"Experience the crisp granite of Lac Long through Super Mimi, a classic 5.9 trad climb that unfolds on a right-facing dihedral leading into an airy chimney. Perfect for climbers seeking a demanding yet accessible single pitch framed by serene wilderness."
Super Mimi commands your attention from the start with a bold right-facing dihedral that draws you upward through shifting cracks and culminates in a striking, airy chimney. The climb’s straightforward 5.9 rating offers a solid challenge balanced by the satisfying flow of natural features. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts beneath your hands, moving from clean cracks to the inviting embrace of the chimney—where every move demands focus but rewards with expansive views and a thrilling sense of exposure.
The belay station crowns the top of this single-pitch route, an open perch that looks out over Lac Long’s rugged landscape, a serene expanse of water bordered by forested slopes that beckon you to pause and drink it in. The rappel anchors sit just beyond a prominent arete to the left, a key detail for descent planning. You'll find a glue-in bolt at the base to secure the belayer, with another halfway up, allowing smooth protection for the climb. The gear list favors TCUs and doubles from #1 to #3 Camalots, with the option for a #4, though it’s not essential.
Accessing Super Mimi is an adventure in itself, with the route situated within the Central Area of Quebec’s Lac Long climbing zone. The approach traces gentle but uneven terrain that winds through quiet woods, setting the tone for a day where nature’s presence is constant and grounding. Once on the wall, the crack systems subtly test footwork and hand jams without veering into overly technical territory, making this climb approachable for those expanding their trad repertoire.
Weather and timing matter here; morning light softens the surface, highlighting the rock’s natural contrasts, and helps grip by drying overnight moisture. As the wall faces a comfortable angle, afternoon sessions stay cooler in warmer months. Water resupply is sparse near the base, so bring plenty to stay refreshed. Lightweight, supportive footwear that breathes well will serve you well on both the approach and the climb.
Super Mimi doesn’t just deliver physical movement—it immerses you in the essence of Lac Long’s climbing spirit. The climb’s balance of steady challenge, straightforward protection, and scenic payoff makes it an ideal choice for climbers eager to engage with Quebec’s less crowded granite walls. And after topping out, spending a quiet moment soaking in the lake’s calm reflections reminds you why this vertical journey matters: it’s about connection—between body, rock, and the wild places that call us upward.
Watch your rope management on the rappel—anchors are located on the opposite side of the large arete, requiring careful navigation to avoid rope drag. Also be mindful of the chimney’s exposure; steady foot placements and secure gear placements are essential for safety.
Start early to take advantage of morning light and dry rock conditions.
Bring doubles of mid-sized cams for optimal gear placements in the variable crack widths.
Plan your rappel carefully—the anchor is left of the climb’s start beyond the large arete.
Carry sufficient water; there are no natural sources near the base.
Protection includes two glue-in bolts—one anchoring the belayer at the base and another mid-route. Trad gear ranging from TCUs to double sets of #1 to #3 Camalots will keep you covered; a #4 can find placements but isn’t essential. The rappel is secured with a reliable bolted anchor located on the opposite side of the main arete.
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