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Sunshine Breakfast: A Classic Trad Climb in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
crack climbing
multi-pitch
finger crack
hand crack
forest approach
traditional protection
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Sunshine Breakfast
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sunshine Breakfast brings a rewarding three-pitch trad climb to Squamish’s Solarium sector, blending clean fists and fingers with solid protection. This route offers a climb that is both accessible and engaging, ideal for climbers looking to experience the essence of Squamish granite."

Sunshine Breakfast: A Classic Trad Climb in Squamish

Sunshine Breakfast offers a thoroughly engaging three-pitch trad climb that showcases the rugged granite and deep cracks distinctive to Squamish’s legendary north shore. From the moment your fingers find purchase in the corner crack, the route challenges you to read its varied features with precise footwork and steady technique. The first pitch begins with an inviting corner that leads you toward a solitary hemlock tree, offering a moment of respite and an excellent belay spot. Moving deftly through a tunnel and carefully balancing across a flake's narrow edge, you’ll soon find a finger crack that demands attention — the reachy finish adds a burst of excitement before you settle on the tree belay.

Pitch two extends the rhythm with a series of hand and fist cracks, threading past a small cave and negotiating two distinct finger cracks that draw your focus upward and skyward. The pine tree at the belay marks a natural break and a chance to recalibrate before the final push. Pitch three steers you into a sometimes sticky crack, requiring patience and mindful cleaning to maintain flow. Here, the route splits: a run-out slab veers left, reserved for those seeking a bolder move, while the main line climbs right, navigating bolts above an undercling flake. The granite here feels alive — cool to the touch, rough enough for reliable edging, but always calling for clean, decisive placements.

Squamish’s temperate climate and forested surroundings mean your approach is as much a part of the day’s experience as the climb. The access trail to The Chief’s Solarium area weaves through thick stands of cedar and fir, faint sounds of distant water urging you on. Ideal for climbers comfortable with traditional gear placements up to 4-5 inches, this climb offers both a test and a reward: solid protection, natural rests, and stellar views at each belay. Planning your ascent midweek outside peak tourist seasons helps ensure a quieter wall, allowing room to tune into the crack’s subtle shifts and the forest’s steady breathing. Whether you’re working toward your next onsight or simply savoring the granite’s challenges, Sunshine Breakfast delivers a balanced day of adventure deep in one of Canada’s top climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements on the approach to the tree belays—slippery granite slabs can be hazardous when damp. Also, pitch three’s crack can collect debris, so carefully test your gear placements before weighting them fully. Weather can shift quickly in Squamish, so keep an eye on forecasts to avoid wet granite during your climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach the Solarium early to avoid afternoon crowds.

The final pitch’s slab to the left is more run-out—stick to the right if you prefer sustained protection.

Keep your gear clean—dirt can accumulate in the third pitch’s crack, making placements tricky.

Wear shoes with solid edging capability to handle the occasional smooth granite sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits the route’s character well, with solid, straightforward crack climbing that occasionally demands a reachy move. The rating feels fair; the cruxes tend to flow if your technique is dialed, though the slightly dirty sections on pitch three can add subtle friction to the challenge. Compared to other Solarium routes, this climb sits comfortably in the mid-range difficulty, making it approachable yet rewarding for trad enthusiasts.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with protection ranging from small cams up to 4-5 inches. The route features several crack sizes, including hand and fist jams, so a diverse rack is necessary for safe, confident placements.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
finger crack
hand crack
forest approach
traditional protection