"Sunnyside presents a bright, engaging single-pitch climb on Bishop Peak's East summit, blending delicate thin moves with a rewarding mantle onto a broad ledge. Perfect for climbers looking to step into 5.9 terrain with manageable protection and sunny exposure."
Sunnyside offers a straightforward yet engaging climb on the East side of Summit Blocks, perfect for climbers eyeing a strong step into the 5.9 grade without overwhelming technicality. The route kicks off with a steep and thin start demanding careful footwork and delicate hand placements, immediately testing your strength and balance within the first 10 feet. This initial crux gradually eases into a fun mantle move leading onto a large, comfortable ledge where you can catch your breath and take in the surroundings. The rock here feels solid under your hands, and the rest of the pitch flows more steadily with mostly 5.8 or easier moves.
Positioned on the far right side of the P-Wall area, Sunnyside basks in sunlight, a notable shift from the cooler shadows dominating nearby climbs like Dark Side or Garden Party. This bright exposure invites climbers to experience both challenge and comfort, as the warmth enhances friction on the rock surface. Beyond the technical climb itself, the route serves as a smart connector to the summit of Bishop Peak, giving a rewarding finish to a day spent exploring adjacent lines.
The climb stretches about 70 feet in a single pitch, blending trad placements and sport draws. Protection is mix-and-match here: you’ll rely on quickdraws for bolts peppered along the route, complemented by a handful of natural gear placements to secure the mantle move safely. Keep in mind the runout near the top, where protection thins out but moves stay mellow. Those preparing to lead should be comfortable placing small to medium pro and ready for a slightly runout finish.
Approaching Sunnyside is straightforward, with a well-trodden trail leading into Summit Blocks East. The base is shaded intermittently by surrounding oak, which can come alive with the characteristic itch of poison oak—but don’t let that rumor overshadow the experience; the vegetation is manageable with a little caution. Early morning starts or late afternoon climbs work best to avoid the heat of midday and catch softer rock temperatures, particularly in California’s Central Coast summer months.
For climbers transitioning from the more shadowed P-Wall routes, Sunnyside offers welcome sun and solid views, creating a gentle but rewarding contrast. This climb is ideal for those brushing up from 5.8 into 5.9 territory, providing a “soft 5.9” feel without overwhelming cruxes when handled with deliberate, calm moves. It’s an excellent teaching route for newer leaders wanting exposure to thin climbing and mantles.
After topping out, descend by walking off the summit or scrambling carefully back down the approach trail. Remember to pack appropriate shoes for the approach, carry plenty of water for hydration, and consider a helmet due to loose rock potential near the ledges. Whether bolted or protected traditionally, Sunnyside delivers a satisfying mix of technical climbing and natural beauty in an accessible package, encouraging both progress and adventure on Central Coast rock.
Watch for runouts near the top where bolts thin out—keep placements solid and expect some adventure before the finish. The mantle requires careful foot placement, and the surrounding poison oak at the base calls for vigilance during approach and descent.
Start early to avoid the midday heat and maximize rock friction in the morning sun.
Wear long pants or check carefully for poison oak near the base—handling it with gloves and awareness limits contact.
Bring a moderately sized rack with small cams and nuts for added protection on the mantle.
Consider top-roping if you’re new to leading, as the route sets up easily from nearby anchors.
Sunnyside requires a mix of quickdraws and some natural gear placements, especially to protect the mantle move early on. A set of small to medium cams and nuts will cover the pro needed for the thin crux section, with bolts protecting smoother terrain further up.
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