HomeClimbing5.8 Gear

Steady 5.8 Trad Climb on Hidden Tower’s Crack

Apple Valley, California United States
trad crack
single pitch
desert climbing
easy protection
sport finish
top rope possible
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.8 Gear
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A straightforward trad climb on Hidden Tower delivering steady crack moves with protective gear placements and a sport finish. Ideal for trad climbers looking to refine crack skills amidst the sun-soaked high desert."

Steady 5.8 Trad Climb on Hidden Tower’s Crack

Located in the rugged expanse of California’s High Desert, the Hidden Tower delivers an accessible yet rewarding 40-foot trad climb that challenges your technique without demanding far-fetched gymnastic moves. This route follows a chimneying crack that steadily tests your footwork and crack climbing skills, culminating at a crux just before the top where two bolts punctuate the protection with a touch of sport climbing security. The rock’s texture is solid, offering reliable edges and finger holds, inviting climbers to engage with the natural features rather than relying heavily on bolts.

As you ascend, the crack takes on a lively personality, gently coaxing hands and feet deeper into its cleft, while the sun beats down on the surrounding sun-baked sandstone face. The approach lies within the Land of the Lost area, known for its open desert vistas and stark, sculpted rock faces, requiring a short trek over uneven ground to reach the base. Timing your climb during cooler morning hours is ideal to avoid the desert heat that can weigh heavily in the afternoon.

Protection demands a rack of gear up to 2 inches, as placements are generally straightforward but require deliberate sizing to ensure secure placements. The presence of two bolts near the top smooths over the final moves, offering a reassuring clip before the crux. The climb finishes at a 2-bolt anchor, simplifying the descent with a quick rappel.

Though a single-pitch route, this climb offers ample opportunity to sharpen crack climbing technique in a scenic yet practical setting. It's well suited to trad climbers stepping up from easier routes or sport climbers eager to gain comfort with gear placements. The sparse local foot traffic—evident in the modest number of votes—means you’ll likely enjoy a quiet experience surrounded by classic desert hues and the occasional call of distant birds.

To prepare, bring hydration suited for dry conditions, sturdy approach shoes with good traction, and a lightweight rack equipped for crack protection. The trail to the tower is short but uneven, so allow 20 to 30 minutes from trailhead to base. Keep an eye on the sky; weather shifts can transform the approach rapidly, especially late in the season.

Hidden Tower’s steady crack climb is a perfect stepping stone for trad riders craving a touch of desert exposure and classic protection challenges, without the complexity of multi-pitch logistics. Approach with respect for the desert’s pace and reward yourself with sweeping views after a satisfying send.

Climber Safety

Though the climb is short and protected, the approach involves uneven desert terrain—watch your footing on loose rock. The rock is solid but can be warm to the touch during midday, so avoid peak heat hours. Rappelling requires attention to the two-bolt anchor’s integrity before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the high desert heat and avoid sticky afternoon rock.

Bring a full rack with cams and nuts up to 2" for the crack protection.

Wear approach shoes with good grip for the uneven trail to the base.

Check weather forecasts closely; sudden winds or heat spikes can affect conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade on this route feels accurate, with moderate moves and a straightforward crux near the top that tests technique rather than brute strength. The bolt placements lighten risk on the final moves, making this an accessible challenge for those stepping into desert trad climbing from easier sport routes or indoor climbing.

Gear Requirements

Bring trad gear up to 2 inches; that’s essential for secure placements along the crack. Two bolts near the top simplify the last moves, and a 2-bolt anchor facilitates easy rappel.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of 5.8 Gear and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad crack
single pitch
desert climbing
easy protection
sport finish
top rope possible