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Start From Scratch at The Apron

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
opposing corner
multi-pitch
trad protection
granite
roof
technical
Length: 656 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Start From Scratch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Start From Scratch is a compelling two-pitch trad climb on The Apron’s granite face, blending finger cracks and corners that challenge technique without overwhelming. Perfect for climbers seeking a technical yet manageable Squamish classic."

Start From Scratch at The Apron

Start From Scratch offers an engaging two-pitch trad climb winding up the storied granite walls of The Apron, tucked within the iconic landscape of The Chief in Squamish, British Columbia. Your adventure begins with a short scramble to the base, where two weathered trees stand like silent sentinels guarding the route’s entrance. Beyond the leftmost tree, parallel finger cracks beckon, their narrow openings inviting steady hands and confident feet. These cracks open into a shallow, opposing corner—a subtle cave of stone that plays with balance and technique, challenging climbers to flow through the moves as the granite exhales beneath your touch. This initial pitch, roughly 20 meters and graded 5.10b, culminates at a ledge anchored with bolts, a small reward of solid rock and breath-steadying views.

The second pitch asks for a delicate step right from the belay, moving into a face climb punctuated by a single bolt. Here, the rock leans into you, testing your balance and precision before a rightward traverse leads into the main corner. The corner itself presents a steady rhythm, inviting climbers up to a roof that appears more intimidating from below than it really is. After overcoming this feature, a low-angle crack stretches for about 10 meters, guiding you upward before stepping right to reach a bolted belay shared with the adjacent route, Calculus Crack.

Protection consists mainly of finger-sized cams and hand placements, particularly critical for the final roof where secure gear placements can be sparse and require thoughtful positioning. This climb navigates the granite with a quiet intensity, offering both technical movement and gratifying exposure without excessive risk. The route’s location on The Apron places it within a climbing zone celebrated for its mixture of accessible trad lines and breathtaking vistas of Howe Sound’s rugged fjords.

Approach access is straightforward, taking about 30 minutes from the Squamish town center via well-marked trails leading to the base of The Chief. The rock benefits from morning shade on the face, making spring and fall ideal seasons to climb before summer warmth intensifies. Prepare well with reliable footwear to handle the slick granite approaches, and bring ample water, as this stretch does not offer natural hydration points.

Start From Scratch blends thoughtful protection, technical climbing, and a manageable length, making it a rewarding challenge for intermediate climbers comfortable with sustained crack and corner climbing. The route’s two pitches afford a rhythmic pace that encourages steady progression paired with moments of introspection—as if the rock asks you to read its textures and listen to the pulse beneath your fingertips. Whether you're looking to sharpen finger crack skills or soak in Squamish’s natural grandeur, this climb offers a clear, focused adventure that starts with a single move and leads to a satisfying summit anchor.

Climber Safety

The granite here is generally solid, but the roof section demands attentive gear placement and cautious movement. Avoid loose rock near the trees at the base on the approach to prevent slips and injuries.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length656 feet

Local Tips

Approach trails are well-marked but can get slippery after rain—wear boots with good traction.

Morning climbs offer cooler temperatures and less direct sun on the face.

Bring a small amount of water; the route has no natural water sources nearby.

Double-check gear placements on the roof section; protection can be sparse.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.10c, Start From Scratch feels approachable to climbers comfortable in sustained finger cracks and technical face moves; the roof on the second pitch provides a mild crux but is more psychological than physical. For Squamish standards, the grade is fairly accurate, with no noticeably soft or inflated sections.

Gear Requirements

Finger cams and hand-sized gear are essential, especially for securing the final roof on pitch two. Expect a need for careful gear placements where cracks narrow.

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Tags

finger crack
opposing corner
multi-pitch
trad protection
granite
roof
technical