HomeClimbingStarring Matt Damon

Starring Matt Damon

McQuirks Mountain, Canada
trad
single pitch
slab
small gear
bolted rappel
New Brunswick
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Starring Matt Damon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Starring Matt Damon is a single-pitch trad climb on McQuirks Mountain that combines straightforward climbing with subtle challenges in protection and slab moves. It offers climbers a chance to sharpen their gear skills while enjoying varied finishes and a bolted rappel station for an easy descent."

Starring Matt Damon

Starring Matt Damon offers climbers a refreshing blend of accessible trad climbing infused with just enough edge to keep the experience engaging. Situated in the Green Zone on McQuirks Mountain, this single-pitch, 110-foot climb unfolds across a varied face with a mix of gear placements and a trio of bolts safeguarding some of the more exposed slab sections. From the ground, the route invites climbers with an easy start, but the first solid gear placement asks you to actively scan left or right, adding a mild puzzle that wakes you up and connects you directly to the rock. Beyond this initial challenge, protection tends to settle in comfortably, allowing a steady rhythm as you navigate upward.

The climbing itself contrasts smooth slab moves with pockets and edges that demand precise footwork and confident hand jams. The route forks near the top, offering multiple finish options to match your ambition: a 5.9 variation to the right or left for those wanting to seal it with consistent ease, or a straight-up 10a direct line for climbers seeking a crisper challenge. Each finish path presents different textures of rock and subtle shifts in angle that keep the final moves fresh.

While the route covers a modest length, the quality of rock and thoughtfully placed bolts make it a prime choice for trad climbers refining their gear skills without leaving behind the thrill of a little spicy face climbing. The rappel station at the top is bolted, providing safe and straightforward descent options.

When planning your ascent, bring a standard rack geared up with plenty of smaller nuts and cams up to 2 inches, anticipating some tight spots before the protection opens up. The mountain’s Green Zone location grants an approachable access point with minimal elevation gain, making it perfect for a half-day outing focused on honing technique and savoring crisp Canadian mountain air.

Climbers can expect steady shade during morning hours, with afternoon sun warming the rock, so timing your climb accordingly can enhance grip and comfort. The ambiance combines the quiet draw of woodland seclusion with expansive views that remind you why these rugged edges beckon adventurers.

Keep an eye on the holds during slab moves—they stay solid but demand committed body tension and trust in your foot placements. The gear placements lean toward reliability but require a thoughtful eye early on, so a steady pace and clear head will make the difference between smooth flow and unnecessary hesitation.

Starring Matt Damon is an ideal step for trad climbers ready to transition from the straightforward to something with a touch more spice without committing to multi-pitch complexity or technical crack climbing. Its approachable length, combined with varied protection and routes, positions it as a versatile training ground and a rewarding climb in the heart of New Brunswick’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

The initial gear placement can be tricky to find, so climbers should be cautious to avoid wandering too long without protection. Slabby sections may feel exposed—maintain three points of contact and trust your feet. Bolted rappel station is safe but always double-check anchors and rope setup.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Scan slightly left or right for your first solid gear placement to avoid struggle.

Carry plenty of small nuts and cams—small gear dominates early protection.

Aim for morning climbs to enjoy shaded rock and cooler temperatures.

Two rappel ropes needed to safely descend using the bolted rappel station.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, the climb features a nuanced first gear placement that adds subtle tension early on. The bolted slabs provide secure protection but require faithful footwork to avoid slips. The direct 10a finish ups the technical challenge, making the route versatile across skill levels.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 2-inch cams, focusing on smaller pieces early on. Three bolts protect slab sections, and a bolted rappel station ensures an easy descent.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
slab
small gear
bolted rappel
New Brunswick