HomeClimbingStar Wars

Star Wars Trad Climb at Powell River

Powell River, Canada
finger crack
flake
dike climbing
multi-pitch
bolt belay
coastal climbing
technical face
5.10+
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
9
Location
Star Wars
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Star Wars unfolds as a demanding 9-pitch trad climb near Powell River, showcasing crisp finger cracks, technical face climbing, and strategic bolt placements. It challenges climbers with diverse terrain while rewarding with solid protection and sweeping coastal views."

Star Wars Trad Climb at Powell River

Star Wars stands out on the rugged cliffs near Powell River, British Columbia, offering a compelling adventure for trad climbers eager to test their skills over nearly 800 feet of varied terrain. This demanding route weaves through a sequence of cracks, flakes, dikes, and knobs that push you through nine pitches of solid climbing, mixing technical face moves with finger cracks that reward precision and persistence. The initial pitch announces itself with a pronounced left-trending finger crack rated 5.10a, inviting climbers to engage with the rock right away, while subsequent pitches shift dynamically between bolt-protected face climbing and natural crack lines, demanding adaptability and focused footwork.

The landscape around the climb adds to the experience; the cliff’s features catch the light in ways that highlight every hold, while the scattered bolted belays—particularly on pitches one through four and pitch eight—offer reassuring anchors amid the challenge. The approach tracks through forested terrain, buoyed by fresh coastal air, and the summit reveals broad exposures of British Columbia’s coastal ranges, a rewarding payoff after the technical test. Rappelling off the summit requires careful navigation. After the final moves, the descent skirts right and downhill, linking back to the established rap stations outlined in the topo, allowing for a safe return.

Gear choices are critical on Star Wars. A double set of cams up to 3 inches, complemented by stoppers, form the backbone of your protection strategy, ensuring secure placements in the varied cracks and flakes you’ll encounter. Climbers should bring two 60-meter ropes to manage the longer pitches seamlessly. The route’s mix of natural gear and bolts allows for both traditional placements and confident rests at belays, making strategic planning essential for pacing.

For those looking to get the most from the climb, timing your ascent to avoid the direct afternoon sun enhances comfort and grip as the rock retains heat through the day. Early season climbing rewards with cooler temperatures, while summer strides offer longer daylight and clearer skies. Prepare for changing coastal conditions by layering and staying hydrated, as the climb’s powdery granite surfaces demand clean shoes and steady footing.

Star Wars is a compelling testpiece near Powell River, blending technical challenges with breathtaking views and solid protection. Whether you’re tuning your crack climbing skills or chasing an extended adventure across some of Canada’s finest stone, this multi-pitch trad route delivers a balanced mix of excitement and control, grounded in a setting that invites respect and careful preparation.

Climber Safety

Pay special attention during the descent; the hiking route off the summit requires careful navigation to avoid loose terrain. Also, scour gear placements on flake sections, especially where protection can be sparse or tricky.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches9
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun heating the rock.

Stick to clean, well-kept climbing shoes for optimal friction on knobs and cracks.

Prepare for a mix of crack and face climbing; versatility in technique is key.

Double ropes smooth transitions on longer pitches and make rappels safer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10+ rating on Star Wars feels on point, with some pitches pushing into 10d territory that demand precise footwork and confident movements on knobs and face holds. The finger cracks offer an engaging crux requiring solid crack technique. Compared to other routes in the Powell River area, this climb sits firmly in the upper-intermediate to advanced range but remains accessible with a good trad rack and experience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a double set of cams up to 3 inches and a full rack of stoppers. Two 60m ropes are recommended to efficiently manage all pitches. Note that pitches 1-4 and 8 have bolted belay anchors, easing anchor management.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Star Wars and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

finger crack
flake
dike climbing
multi-pitch
bolt belay
coastal climbing
technical face
5.10+