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Stairway to Heaven: A Focused 5.9- Trad Challenge in Box Springs Mountain Park

Riverside, California United States
hand crack
balancy mantle
runout
southern california
trad
short route
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Stairway to Heaven
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Stairway to Heaven presents a focused 5.9- trad climb on Box Springs Mountain’s rocky face. Short but full of character, it blends technical undercling and hand crack climbing with a balancy mantle that keeps the challenge engaging."

Stairway to Heaven: A Focused 5.9- Trad Challenge in Box Springs Mountain Park

Rising sharply from the rugged landscape of Box Springs Mountain Park, Stairway to Heaven offers climbers a crisp, single-pitch trad route that mixes technical finesse with straightforward ambition. The climb begins with an inviting undercling that draws you upward and rightward, demanding controlled balance as you edge toward a slightly committing mantle onto a sturdy ledge. This move is a pivotal moment—not just a physical challenge but a test of calm, as the rock beneath your hands and feet feels alive, urging precision and attention.

Beyond the mantle, the path continues along a right-leaning hand crack that channels upward, tempting fingers and hands to find secure jams while eyes scan for the next gear placement. The crack protects adequately, but the initial section before reaching the ledge leaves a significant runout, calling for mental steadiness and, ideally, a vigilant spotter ready to support your landing should a slip occur.

The surrounding terrain frames the climb with the quiet character of Inland Empire’s outdoor offerings. Pine and oak scatter along the Two Trees Trail Area, their needles and leaves whispering with the breeze, while distant hills stretch under California’s ever-present sun. This climb rewards early visitors with cool morning shade before the afternoon heats the rock, making timing a crucial factor.

At just 25 feet, Stairway to Heaven is concise yet packed with moves that blend grace and grit. Its 5.9- rating reflects a climb that can feel accessible but insists on respect for the exposure and gear runout. Gear requirements focus on placements suited for medium-sized cams, arranged with care to protect primarily the upper crack section, while the low traverse demands trust in balance and commitment.

Approaching the route is straightforward from the Two Trees Trail Area. The path rolls through mixed terrain of dirt and scattered rocks, steep yet manageable for a casual 15-minute hike from the parking area. Coordinates at 33.9811 latitude and -117.2902 longitude place you in a familiar spot for Inland Empire climbers with a taste for traditional lines that reward patience and technique.

Come prepared with clean climbing shoes for delicate smearing on the mantle and a rack of cams focused on the mid-range sizes. Keep your water and sun protection handy as midday sun can intensify the stone’s warmth. Whether you’re dialing in your crack skills or seeking a sharp challenge with manageable length, Stairway to Heaven is a compact gem offering solid exposure and a chance to test quiet nerve in a welcoming Southern California setting.

Climber Safety

Climbers should approach the initial undercling and mantle with caution as the protection is sparse before reaching the ledge. Consider a spotter to reduce risk in case of a fall, and double-check placements on the hand crack for stability.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the wall.

Bring a spotter for added safety during the runout section below the mantle.

Focus on precision footwork; the mantle demands balance more than brute strength.

Pack layers and sun protection—temperatures rise quickly after midday.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade feels approachable but is nuanced by the runout below the mantle. While the technical moves are not extreme, the psychological challenge of limited protection early in the climb makes the rating feel slightly stiffer than the number alone suggests. Compared to other local Box Springs routes, Stairway to Heaven demands more mental focus on gear management than pure physical difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Essential medium-sized cams are required to protect the right-leaning hand crack securely. However, the initial half of the climb before the mantle ledge offers little gear, so climbers should be prepared to run out safely for this section.

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Tags

hand crack
balancy mantle
runout
southern california
trad
short route