HomeClimbingSqueaking Pikas

Squeaking Pikas Trad Climb in Keno Hills, Yukon Territory

Keno City, Canada
chimney
trad
short climb
boulder anchor
Yukon
technical moves
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Squeaking Pikas
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Squeaking Pikas is a short, hands-on trad climb that tests your chimney technique amidst Yukon’s rugged terrain. Navigate tight spaces and carefully avoid loose rock in a route that’s as much about finesse as it is about strength."

Squeaking Pikas Trad Climb in Keno Hills, Yukon Territory

Squeaking Pikas offers a quick but rewarding 30-foot chimney climb that challenges your technique more than your endurance. Located in the Keno Hills region of Yukon Territory, this trad route invites climbers into a rugged landscape where weathered rock surfaces speak to the passage of time. The climb itself demands a careful approach as you stem upward through a narrow chimney, feeling the intimate push and pull of your body against the rock. The chimney’s tight confines send your mind into focused concentration, while the granite’s coarse texture promises secure holds—if you're ready to trust your feet and hands in this compact setting.

A crucial piece of advice: mid-climb, a loose stack of talus threatens the integrity of the ceiling overhead. Instead of pushing straight on, veer left onto an exposed face to avoid this unstable rock. This subtle route adjustment not only protects your safety but introduces a contrasting movement—stepping out from the chimney’s embrace to negotiate the wall’s face. Your belay awaits atop a prominent boulder, softened by 8 meters of webbing wrapping the natural anchor. Gear-wise, this climb is straightforward with limited protection placements: a small set of cams up to 1 inch, a #4 cam, and optionally a #6 for a more secure ground start.

Keno Hills itself is a place where the land feels both ancient and open. Sparse vegetation and rocky outcrops lend a sense of isolation, but the latitude brings long daylight summers that extend climbing sessions well into the evening. Approaching the route is a manageable trek through mixed tundra, marked by scattered shrubs and open views that remind you of Yukon’s raw wilderness. Whether you’re honing chimney skills or looking for a solid intro to trad in a northern setting, Squeaking Pikas offers a compact adventure that tests balance, technique, and situational awareness.

Plan your ascent with a mind to light layers and sturdy footwear capable of edging on rough rock. Carry enough hydration for the exposed hike in, and set off early to make the most of steady daylight and calmer afternoon winds. This climb is ideal for climbers comfortable with basic chimney movements who want a brief but memorable crag experience without extensive approach or equipment demands.

Climber Safety

Watch out for the unstable talus stack above the chimney. Avoid direct upward moves beneath this section by moving left where the rock is more stable. Protective gear placement can be sparse, so double-check cams before trusting them fully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Avoid the loose talus ceiling by moving left onto the face mid-climb.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for confident edging on the face section.

Start early to benefit from calmer morning winds and extended daylight.

Carry water and dress in layers; Yukon weather can shift quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating here feels honest but leans slightly toward the stiff side for chimney climbs. The crux is the move left onto the face to avoid loose rock, which demands a precise foot placement and balance shift uncommon at this grade. For those used to longer pitches around the area, this compact route offers technical challenges without the commitment of a multi-pitch climb.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with cams from small sizes up to 1 inch, a #4 cam essential for key placements, and optionally a #6 cam to ease ground-level protection. 8 meters of webbing make a secure anchor around the boulder at the belay station.

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Tags

chimney
trad
short climb
boulder anchor
Yukon
technical moves