"Spring Cleaning invites new trad leaders to test their skills on solid, bomber holds amid the raw majesty of Strathcona Provincial Park. This single-pitch 5.6 climb delivers straightforward protection and reliable rock, creating an ideal alpine trad experience on Vancouver Island."
Spring Cleaning offers an inviting introduction to trad climbing for those stepping up to lead on real rock, set against the striking backdrop of Strathcona Provincial Park. This single-pitch, moderate 5.6 climb stretches about 50 feet along solid rock, marked by secure, bomber holds that inspire confidence at every move. The route thrives in an alpine setting that balances wilderness isolation with accessible approach trails, placing climbers amid the bold contours of New Crest Creek’s rugged cliffs. The rock feels reliable, demanding straightforward techniques without the stress of tricky placements or fragile edges. Protection is straightforward, with gear placements comfortably fitting up to 2-inch cams and complemented by bolted anchors for a safe top-out. This combination makes Spring Cleaning exceptionally friendly for new trad leaders seeking a natural progression from sport climbing or gym experiences to genuine outdoor trad exposure.
Approach unfolds through an approachable trek that guides you comfortably along forested paths before arriving at the base, where the rock presents its natural welcome. The air holds that sharp freshness particular to high island environments, hints of cedar and moss surrounding the base, while the creek below hums with steady flow—reminding you of the wild setting you’ve entered. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are ideal for avoiding direct sun, with the wall receiving a balanced exposure that softens the day’s heat but still delivers clear light to read holds with ease.
Local tips emphasize packing essential trad gear, a solid pair of approach shoes capable on gravelly surfaces, and bringing enough water to stay hydrated during the climb and trek. Though relatively short, the climb benefits from climbing during stable dry conditions, as wet rock can alter friction and increase risk. Descending involves a straightforward rap from the bolted anchors, making the downclimb safe and efficient.
Spring Cleaning is a gem for those eager to sharpen fundamental trad skills in the spectacular outdoors, blending accessible climbing with the raw mood of Vancouver Island’s mountainous heart.
While the rock and gear placements are very solid, climbers should remain cautious on the approach trail, which can be slick when wet. Ensure rappelling techniques are clean, as the descent relies on fixed anchors.
Approach trail is well-marked but can be slippery when wet; wear durable shoes with good traction.
Pack a hydration system, as no water sources are reliable near the climbing base.
Best climbed in morning or late afternoon to avoid direct harsh sunlight on the face.
Check weather reports as boggy sections on the trail can increase approach time after rain.
Trad gear fitting up to 2-inch cams recommended, with bolted anchors for rap descent. The holds are bomber and gear placements solid, perfect for leaders new to trad.
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