"Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs blends clean face climbing with technical crack work high on Mota Wall’s limestone in El Potrero Chico. With reliable bolt protection and a signature crux at the fifth bolt crack, it’s a challenging but approachable 90-foot single pitch for climbers pushing into solid 5.12 territory."
Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs commands attention on the sun-drenched face of Mota Wall in El Potrero Chico, one of Northern Mexico's premier climbing destinations. This 90-foot sport route invites climbers to test their mettle on a clean, vertical wall peppered with bolts that promise a straightforward yet challenging ascension. The climb launches smoothly onto a pristine rock surface, demanding precise footwork and controlled movement before reaching a subtle ledge that offers a brief respite.
The route’s core challenge emerges along a small crack situated just to the right of the fifth bolt. Opting to climb this crack reduces the difficulty noticeably, making the difference between a tough 5.12a and a slightly more accessible climb by a couple of grade steps. This choice opens the door for climbers eager to engage with natural features instead of purely relying on face holds, providing a nuanced balance between technical skill and raw endurance.
Protection is well established with nine bolts leading safely to anchors above a secondary ledge, where climbers can regroup and prepare for the final moves. The rock here is solid and offers reliable placements, making protection trustworthy even as the route demands consistent effort throughout. Climbers report a distinct sense of flow along the face, with the occasional challenge of maintaining grip and focus, especially under the glare of the Northern Mexican sun.
Mota Wall sits within the rugged expanse of El Potrero Chico, a climbing haven known for its limestone cliffs that tower over the desert landscape. The area is characterized by dry, clear air and sweeping views of distant ridgelines, creating a backdrop that both humbles and energizes. Approach trails are well marked but can become hot during midday, so early starts and hydration are essential.
For those tackling Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs, solid climbing shoes with good edging capability and chalk to manage sweat will improve hold security. Given the sport climb’s brief length but technical demands, pacing yourself and scouting the crack option early on can lead to a smoother ascent. Fall protection is reliable, but the route's exposure requires climbers to be comfortable with confident clipping and seam navigation.
Whether you’re sharpening your 5.12 skills or seeking a route that blends face climbing with crack technique, this climb offers an unusual and rewarding challenge. Prepare for the dryness of the desert, early morning shadows along the face, and the satisfying pull of each well-placed bolt as you ascend. It’s an invigorating piece of El Potrero Chico’s climbing mosaic, with plenty to teach and a route to respect.
While protection is solid with nine bolts, climbers should be cautious on the ledges where footing can be narrow and sun exposure heightens dehydration risk. Watch for loose dust on the face early in the season and avoid late afternoon ascents to reduce heat stress.
Start early to avoid intense midday heat on the exposed limestone face.
Bring climbing shoes with precise edging for the small face holds and crack.
Use chalk liberally; the dry desert air can still cause sweaty hands on technical moves.
Scout the crack option early to decide your preferred line and conserve energy.
Equipped with nine bolts leading to anchors, this sport climb offers solid protection with clean placements. Climbers may choose to explore a crack right of the fifth bolt that slightly eases the grade.
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