HomeClimbingSpeed Dial 8

Speed Dial 8 at Sully's Hangout: A Crisp Sport Climb in Vancouver's Backyard

Vancouver, Canada
weathered holds
mossy pedestal
dynamic finish
accessible
quick approach
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Speed Dial 8
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Speed Dial 8 at Sully's Hangout challenges climbers with textured, weathered holds and a dynamic finish. This accessible single-pitch sport climb near Vancouver blends crisp technical moves with a straightforward approach, making it a must-try for intermediate athletes seeking focused difficulty without the crowds."

Speed Dial 8 at Sully's Hangout: A Crisp Sport Climb in Vancouver's Backyard

Speed Dial 8 at Sully's Hangout offers an inviting yet challenging sport climb situated just outside Vancouver, British Columbia. This single-pitch route begins with an easy approach: ascend a moss-laden pedestal rated around third class, or opt for a bypass to the left to find a small ledge serving as the true start. From here, the climb reveals its character—gritty, weathered holds shape a sequence of pinches and jugs that invite strong hands and precise footwork. The line follows five bolts that guide you through steadily increasing technical moves. After the fourth bolt, the climb demands a surge of power into a bouldery finish that tests stamina and courage, culminating in a tricky fifth clip that often decides the ascent’s success.

The rock’s texture has a raw, lived-in quality—etched by Pacific Northwest weather—offering grip that feels both familiar and demanding. Sully's Hangout’s location places you just far enough from the urban sprawl to hear nature’s calls but close enough for a quick after-work session. The route’s moderate length means climbers can push their redpoint efforts without committing an entire day, making it ideal for intermediate climbers seeking to sharpen technique within a natural setting that remains accessible.

Prepare for a moderately intense climb with well-spaced bolts and limited resting spots, demanding attention to body positioning and route reading. The initial scramble requires stable footing and cautious moves to avoid mossy slips, but once on route, climbers engage a variety of holds that reward fluid motion. The final moves push strength and mental focus, with a dynamic feel that makes the last clip both a physical and psychological gatekeeper.

For gear, five bolts protect the route, and relying on quickdraws will keep your ascent efficient. The proximity to Vancouver means weather can shift quickly, so pack layers and consider timing your efforts for drier days to enhance friction and overall comfort.

The climb sits within the wider Sully's Hangout area, a favored pocket of rock known for its accessible sport routes and close community. While not remote, it enjoys a relatively quiet atmosphere compared to busier climbing hubs, allowing for a balanced experience between nature immersion and convenient access.

After the climb, descending is straightforward with downclimbing or easily retracing steps back to the base. While the rock is solid, caution around mossy sections and ledges is advised to prevent slips.

Speed Dial 8 presents a crisp, focused challenge for climbers ready to test endurance and technique on well-protected, textured rock just minutes from the city. Whether sharpening skills or enjoying a spirited session, this route blends practicality with the thrill of pushing limits within the vibrant Vancouver climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Watch your step on the mossy pedestal approach to avoid slipping, especially when wet. The final clipping zone demands good control—fall potential near the last bolt requires confidence and proper gear placement. Keep an eye on weather forecasts as damp conditions can reduce friction and increase hazards.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start from the mossy pedestal scramble with cautious footing or bypass left to a small ledge for easier access.

Bring tape or brush to clean holds if conditions have been wet, as moss affects grip.

Plan your climb on dry, sunny days to maximize friction on weathered rock.

Wear shoes with good edging capability for the bouldery finish moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Speed Dial 8 offers moves that feel solidly within this grade, but the bouldery finish adds a noticeable punch that might push climbers to the upper limit. The protection is reliable but the spacing near the last clip increases the mental load, making it a satisfying test for climbers comfortable at 5.10c/d grades. Compared to nearby Vancouver routes, it sits comfortably as a technical line that requires power and precision more than raw endurance.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by five bolts, requiring a full rack of quickdraws for a clean ascent. While the protection is straightforward, spacing demands efficient clipping and controlled movement especially near the final bolt.

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Tags

weathered holds
mossy pedestal
dynamic finish
accessible
quick approach