"Space Cadet presents a focused single-pitch trad climb that tests slab technique and gear placement skills on the less-traveled Cochrane Lane Cliffs. Its steady incline and unique rock features make for an accessible yet intentional climb near Welsford, Canada."
At the left edge of the prominent roof marking Cave Area at Cochrane Lane Cliffs, Space Cadet offers a concise yet engaging single-pitch trad climb that challenges both your gear placements and slab technique. The approach places you on a low-angle slab, where the rock, tinged with dust and earth, demands precise footwork rather than pure strength. As you gain height, the route angles upward toward a distinctive block known locally as the Roadrunner, a natural marker that guides the final moves. The rock under your hands may not boast perfect cleanliness, but its texture provides enough friction for steady progress, and the surrounding woodland hums faintly with the sounds of the New Brunswick wilderness, encouraging focus and calm.
Climbers should come equipped with a standard rack; protection opportunities present themselves steadily but require attention to detail since the rock’s features are less pronounced than on steeper walls. The rating of 5.6 R signals a need for careful placements—while the moves themselves aren’t overly technical, a slip on the slab could result in a long fall if gear is sparse. This climb rewards a steady head, comfortable slab climbing skills, and the ability to find hidden holds on a less-than-pristine face.
Access to Cochrane Lane Cliffs is straightforward, with Welsford serving as the nearby gateway town. The setting is quietly rugged, with remoteness lending a sense of escape as you prepare. Early spring through early fall offers the best window to enjoy the rock free of ice and with less chance of rain. Given the route’s south-facing exposure, mid-morning to early afternoon climbs tend to catch optimal warmth while avoiding late-day chill or fading light. Whether you’re testing slab skills or seeking a modest but memorable trad experience, Space Cadet provides a grounded adventure among New Brunswick’s quieter climbing selections.
Plan your approach carefully, as the slab approach involves some loose dirt and vegetation, and ensure your gear is well organized before stepping onto the route. The descent is straightforward, typically downclimbing the moderately angled slab with caution over dusty spots. Carry shoes suited for slab traction and bring layered clothing as weather by the river valley can shift quickly. Hydration packs are recommended given limited water sources along the access trail, and a partner familiar with placing traditional protection will enhance safety and confidence here. Space Cadet may not be among the most famous routes, but its understated challenge and peaceful surroundings make it a worthwhile addition for those exploring the broader Cochrane Lane climbing areas.
Mind the dirt and loose rock on the slab; slips can lead to longer falls due to sparse gear. Approach with caution, especially in wet conditions when slab traction decreases sharply.
Start your climb from the left end of the roof, just left of the cave area.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber optimized for slab climbing.
Bring hydration, as water is scarce along the approach trail.
Climb mid-morning for better sun exposure and warmer rock.
A standard rack covers the protection needs here. While placements are available, rely on solid cams and nuts for the slabby, less featured face. Fixed gear is minimal or absent, requiring trad gear confidence.
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