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Space Boyz at La Selva: A 1000-Foot Test of Endurance and Skill

El Potrero Chico, Nuevo Leon Mexico
long route
multi-pitch
limestone
technical crux
windy descent
loose rock hazard
Bolted
El Potrero Chico
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
11
Location
Space Boyz
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Space Boyz stands as one of El Potrero Chico’s longest and most engaging sport routes, blending steady moderate climbing with sharp cruxes over 11 pitches. Its striking limestone walls demand endurance and caution, especially near the summit where loose rock tests your judgment."

Space Boyz at La Selva: A 1000-Foot Test of Endurance and Skill

Rising sharply on the Jungle Wall within the rugged terrain of El Potrero Chico, Space Boyz commands respect with its length and technical demands. Stretching over 1,000 feet and divided into 11 pitches, this sport route flings climbers into a progressive challenge where each pitch builds on the last, culminating in a crux at pitch six rated a demanding 5.10d. The rock here shows the character of northern Mexico’s limestone—mostly solid but with notable sections, especially near the top, where loose chunks test both nerve and caution.

The first four pitches serve as a moderate warm-up, ranging between 5.8 and 5.9, winding upwards with a rhythm that balances movement and route-finding. By pitch five, the difficulty steps up, hinting at the stamina and technique needed ahead. Pitch six stands out with sustained seam climbing and technical moves that justify its 5.10d rating, offering a defining sequence that challenges climbers to stay focused and composed.

Beyond sheer difficulty, environmental conditions shape the experience here: the La Selva area in Nuevo Leon is characterized by sun-dappled walls during the afternoon, while the lower pitches catch the morning light, creating shifting patterns that mark your progress. Winds can whip through the canyon, especially on exposed sections of the upper pitches, so securing gear and ropes carefully is crucial.

Descents require vigilance. The final pitches (9-11) have documented loose rock, a hazard intensified when climbers pull on stuck ropes or dislodge debris. For this reason, climbers are strongly advised to avoid following directly beneath another party and to use a 60-meter rope for rappelling. Bringing a rope bag or flaking your rope across your shoulders will help manage the wind’s interference, mitigating rope drag and rope squeeze.

Bolts and anchors are plentiful and well maintained, typical of sport routes, providing reliable protection throughout. Still, the route demands respect—it’s long and multi-pitch nature means stamina, efficient transitions, and hydration planning are as essential as hooking draws and clipping points.

Space Boyz offers a complete package: sun, shade, limestone that breathes and tests, and a route bolted by dedicated climbers who logged 52 weekends bringing it to life. Its rare length and range of difficulty pitches appeal strongly to climbers ready to move beyond short climbs and embrace a full day on a vertical journey. Ideal timing includes spring and fall for temperature comfort and to avoid the midsummer heat that can weigh heavily on exposed rock. Preparation paired with respect for the natural setting ensures this route remains a top destination for climbers visiting El Potrero Chico.

Whether you're pushing your limit on the sustained technical sections or absorbing the canyon’s rugged beauty during your belay breaks, Space Boyz is a demanding adventure—and one that rewards focus, preparation, and the thrill of hanging high above a landscape shaped by time and rock.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for loose rock on the upper pitches, especially 9 through 11. Descending underneath other parties is risky due to potential rockfall triggered by stuck ropes or climbers. Always double-check your rappel anchors and be prepared for wind gusts that can complicate rope management.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches11
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Avoid climbing below other parties to reduce risk from falling loose rock on upper pitches.

Use a 60-meter rope for efficient rappels and plan for multiple rappels to descend safely.

Flake your rope over your shoulders or use a rope bag to prevent rope drag in windy conditions.

Schedule your climb in spring or fall to enjoy cooler temperatures and reduced sun exposure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10d, Space Boyz represents a challenging but fair test that clusters its toughest moves around pitch six. While the route offers plenty of 5.9 climbing to build rhythm, the sustained nature and the crux together create a step-up that feels well-earned without being overly stiff. Compared to other routes in El Potrero Chico, it ranks as a solid endurance climb with a meaningful technical punch.

Gear Requirements

This route is bolted throughout with solid anchors at every belay, making a 60 meter rope sufficient for rappelling. Climbers should use a rope bag or carry the rope carefully to avoid wind-related rope drag on the descent.

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Tags

long route
multi-pitch
limestone
technical crux
windy descent
loose rock hazard
Bolted
El Potrero Chico