HomeClimbingSouth Couloir

South Couloir on Mt Arrowsmith: An Alpine Trad Climb on Vancouver Island

Parksville, Canada
loose rock
moderate 5th
alpine scrambling
rock horns protection
forest ledge
coastal alpine
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
South Couloir
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"South Couloir on Mt Arrowsmith offers a concise alpine trad experience blending fourth-class scrambling with sections of loose moderate fifth-class climbing. Ideal for adventurers comfortable with variable terrain and light protection in a dynamic coastal alpine setting."

South Couloir on Mt Arrowsmith: An Alpine Trad Climb on Vancouver Island

South Couloir delivers a straightforward yet rewarding alpine climb tucked into the rugged face of Mt Arrowsmith on Vancouver Island. This route ascends a distinct gully just right of the Un-Judges path, inviting climbers into a raw, natural setting marked by a mix of solid fourth-class scrambling and low fifth-class moves. The initial approach takes you to a forested ledge, offering a moment to catch your breath before tackling the ascent. From here, the terrain slopes gently upward along the left side of the gully, a steady passage dominated by easy scrambling that tests balance and route-finding more than pure technical skill.

Midway through, as the gully eases, the climb pivots to the right onto a broad ramp that constitutes the route's crux. This section requires careful footwork and a cautious hand, as the rock here is notably loose. A moderate fifth-class challenge, it calls for a light rack and perhaps a rope for less confident parties who want to move with extra security. Protecting this move is possible with a few slung rock horns, though some climbers may choose to supplement with small nuts or pitons where the terrain permits.

Once past this exposed section, the route mellows again into mixed scrambling across ramps and ledges, winding upward into the South Summit. The views open gradually, revealing towering stands of coastal forest below and the sweeping contours of Vancouver Island’s alpine skyline. Conditions can shift quickly at this elevation, so pacing your effort and staying attentive to weather changes is crucial.

Climbers approaching South Couloir should prepare for a route that balances accessible alpine scrambling with moments demanding deliberate protection choices and loose rock awareness. The climb rewards with graded exposure without excessive technicality, and those comfortable in alpine environments will find it a solid outing that fits well in a day's agenda.

Practical notes include sturdy boots with good traction and layered clothing to adapt as the mountain’s microclimate fluctuates. Hydration is key even in cool coastal air, so carrying enough water and a method to filter from natural sources is recommended. Early season ascents are best moved up swiftly to reduce rockfall hazard from spring thaw cycles. This climb offers an authentic taste of Mt Arrowsmith’s alpine character with a route that invites both adventurers sharpening trad skills and scramblers seeking moderate fifth-class terrain.

Climber Safety

The crux ramp demands care: loose rock can dislodge easily, so moving deliberately while protecting with slings or small gear reduces risk. The approach and climb may shift rapidly with weather, so be vigilant for wet surfaces and sudden changes common to coastal mountains.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid afternoon mountain weather shifts and possible rockfall.

Bring layered clothing to adjust for coastal alpine microclimates.

Wear boots with solid grip for mixed scrambling and loose rock.

Carry sufficient water or filtration gear; hydration is essential at elevation.

Route Rating

Difficulty
Easy 5th
Quality
Consensus:The 'Easy 5th' rating fits well with the climb’s mostly straightforward scrambling, but the ramp crux pushes into moderate fifth-class with loose holds, adding a moment of commitment. This section feels slightly stiffer than the standard easy fifth grade due to rock quality and exposure, making protective gear advisable. Compared to other Vancouver Island alpine routes, South Couloir is accessible yet tests cautious movement.

Gear Requirements

A light trad rack with slings for rock horns, small nuts, and possibly pitons is advisable for the crux ramp. Ropes are optional but recommended for those seeking an added margin on loose sections.

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Tags

loose rock
moderate 5th
alpine scrambling
rock horns protection
forest ledge
coastal alpine