"Something Wicked This Way Comes offers 85 feet of sustained, technical sport climbing on Alberta’s Salt and Pepper Wall. Navigating the first four bolts of Polka Dot before hugging a sharp edge below a left-facing dihedral, this 5.10c challenge rewards steady footwork and precise clipping in a stunning backcountry setting."
Carving a striking line on the Salt and Pepper Wall, the route known as Something Wicked This Way Comes delivers a tight, technical sport climb that demands focus and precision. This 85-foot ascent, rated 5.10c, launches you along the first four bolts of the adjacent Polka Dot route before peeling away onto a subtle edge that skirts below the left-facing dihedral of No Leaf Clover. The climb unfolds on compact rock etched with small edges and pockets, rewarding savvy footwork and controlled movement. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts under your fingertips, testing grip and balance, while the wall’s position at Barrier Bluffs offers sweeping views of Kananaskis’ rugged ridges framed against Alberta’s vast skies. The steady chiseling of wind and sun lends an ever-changing personality to the rock, occasionally warming holds or cooling sweaty hands.
Access to this route is straightforward, with the approach trail weaving through open forest and rocky outcrops that prepare you for the climb’s demanding nature. Follow well-maintained paths from the Barrier Bluffs trailhead just outside Mount Baldy, keeping in mind the altitude near 51 degrees latitude and the cooler mountain air. The climb features nine well-spaced bolts leading safely to a secure anchor, allowing climbers to focus on technique rather than gear placements. While the protection is reliable and solid, the spacing requires confident clipping and awareness of pump-building moves. Given the exposure and elevation, it’s best to plan your ascent during mid-morning to early afternoon when the wall catches ample sunlight without becoming overly hot, especially in summer months.
If you’re targeting this route, prepare with climbing shoes that offer precise edging capability and bring a chalk bag to manage sweat. Hydration is key on the hike in, and layering is recommended as mountain temperatures can shift quickly. Although it’s a single pitch climb, the 5.10c rating presents a sustained challenge with a well-protected crux nestled in the transition from Polka Dot’s bolts to the final edge. On-site, climbers appreciate the quietude of the Kananaskis backcountry combined with the thrill of technical sport moves on an iconic Alberta cliff.
Whether you’re a seasoned climber sharpening your redpoint skills or an adventurous sport climber aiming to conquer a classic line with reliable gear and stunning views, Something Wicked This Way Comes offers a compelling blend of technical challenge and natural beauty. The route’s precise demands paired with the scenic backdrop make it a rewarding addition to any climbing itinerary in the Canadian Rockies.
Watch your clipping as the bolts are spaced to encourage thoughtful movement—avoid rushing to reduce pump. The approach involves scrambling on uneven, rocky trails, so proceed with caution and bring supportive footwear.
Approach via the Barrier Bluffs trailhead with sturdy hiking shoes for rocky terrain.
Climb mid-morning to early afternoon for optimal light and moderate rock temperature.
Bring layers; mountain weather can shift quickly even on sunny days.
Use performance climbing shoes with precise edging for the small holds.
A standard 60m rope and a quickdraw rack with at least 9 draws are essential for clipping the bolts. The bolts are well placed but spaced to challenge your clipping rhythm.
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