"A single-pitch gem in Welsford, Some Enchanted Evening charms with its smooth crack climb and ledge traverses. Perfect for tradition climbers stepping into the scene or those wanting a solid warm-up with scenic views of New Brunswick’s cliff faces."
Some Enchanted Evening offers a compelling introduction to traditional climbing in the Cochrane Lane Cliffs area, framed by the rugged natural beauty of Welsford, New Brunswick. This single-pitch route, climbing 85 feet, invites adventurers to engage directly with the rock's character and features in an accessible yet rewarding setting. Starting from the Astroboy Anchors, climbers navigate a narrow ledge that demands careful footwork and focus, moving left to connect with an easy vertical crack. This crack, modest in difficulty, opens into a small ledge tucked in a corner, providing a natural pause and a moment to survey the surroundings before continuing upward. Alternatively, a terrace approach begins with a traverse to the right, leading to the same climb-starting crack, offering options depending on your preferred line.
The route then ascends steadily through the corner’s ledges, requiring balance and attention to foot placements as the rock’s textures shift under your touch. The final stretch leans left, guiding you toward the finishing tree — a natural anchor point marked by a totem block and climbing tat. The tree stands as a quiet companion to the climb, offering both visual relief and a practical top-out. Throughout the climb, the rock’s surface presents a straightforward texture, demanding enough engagement to keep things interesting but without pushing into technical extremes.
Protection is straightforward here: a standard rack is all you need, allowing climbers to focus more on movement than gear complexity. The route is well suited for those newer to traditional climbing or anyone seeking a fun, moderate climb to sharpen their crack and ledge skills. The atmosphere of the cliffs, surrounded by the gentle hum of Welsford’s forest and the occasional bird call threading through the breeze, creates a grounded connection to this part of New Brunswick’s outdoors.
Planning your day on Some Enchanted Evening is simple — the approach offers solid footing and a manageable timeframe, making it an ideal pick for a morning or afternoon session. Bring sturdy shoes for the traverses and a reliable rack to protect your moves. Hydration is essential, especially if you choose to climb under the midday sun when the rock can warm up comfortably but demands respect.
This climb, graded 5.6, strikes a balance between accessibility and engagement. It’s not a push into extreme difficulty but a clean offering of traditional climbing skills set against a backdrop of natural quiet and steady exposure. For those exploring the Welsford area, this route delivers a reliable experience that respects the pace of the climb while rewarding every step with a satisfying connection to the rock and place.
The narrow ledge traverses demand careful footwork—loose rock can occur but is generally minimal. Be cautious near the finishing tree anchor, and double-check tat and natural gear for security before lowering.
Approach via Astroboy Anchors and traverse left for the easiest start.
Alternatively, start from the terrace and traverse right to reach the crack.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging ability for the narrow ledge sections.
Avoid climbing in wet conditions as the crack and ledges become slippery.
A standard trad rack suffices here, with placements that feel trustworthy without being overly complicated. Expect easy gear in the crack and solid protection opportunities along ledges.
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