"Sneaky Pete blends technical limestone face climbing with bold spacing and a cruxy 5.10d pitch, making it a compelling challenge on Marble Canyon’s Lower Wall. This modern route invites climbers to apply varied techniques while enjoying compelling views and the raw character of BC’s rugged Interior Plateau."
Sneaky Pete carves a bold path up the Lower Wall of Marble Canyon, inviting climbers into a textured world of limestone slabs, edges, and chimneys that demand both skill and creativity. This route, a thoughtful contribution from Mike Mason and Crystal Austin, weaves through steep faces with a rhythm that balances exposed verticality and technical nuance. Beginning with moderate slab climbing, the journey progressively intensifies into a series of pitches that challenge footwork, balance, and route reading—all secured by modern bolts yet never losing a touch of adventure due to the spacing and varied terrain.
As you approach the lower slabs, expect to engage the rock with light steps and confidence as the route arcs leftward before climbing upward to the first belay station perched on a small ledge brushed with a stubborn shrub. The limestone here wears a rough texture that feels alive beneath your fingertips and provides plenty of holds if you keep your eyes open.
Progressing higher, the pitches alternate between low 5th and solid 5.9 face climbing, offering a refreshing mix of scrambling and technical sequences. The orange-colored conglomerate slabs add color and variety, tempting fingers into pockets and edges. The crux pitch, rated 5.10d, is a masterclass in subtle climbing—pinches, sidepulls, and dimples choreograph a sequence of moves requiring a diverse 'quiver' of techniques, from delicate balance to controlled power. It’s here the route earns its grit, pushing climbers to read the rock and execute with precision.
The chimney pitch near the top wraps up the experience with a satisfying squeeze, demanding body positioning as much as brute force. Jamming a knee and leveraging your core will get you through, aided thankfully by well-placed bolts and the occasional natural rest spot. From the summit, the views stretch wide, rewarding your effort with clear sightlines of the Interior Plateau’s rugged contours.
While all bolts and anchors are modern and carefully placed, be mindful: Marble Canyon limestone is notorious for loose sections. This is not a pure sport climb—there are significant stretches of climbing between bolts that test your willingness to engage fully and carefully with the rock. Plan your draws and gear accordingly, and be prepared for occasional runouts despite the route’s modern appearance.
The approach is straightforward but expect to cover rugged terrain en route to the Lower Wall, with ample opportunity to observe the canyon’s raw character before stepping onto the rock. For descent, rappel the entire route with a 70m rope, following chains down; note that a shorter 60m rope can cause complications on some pitches, potentially requiring downclimbing exposed terrain. Alternatively, if you’re familiar with the complex trail system, a walk-off option exists left of the route, though it demands solid route-finding skills and comfort with varied scrambling.
Essentially, Sneaky Pete offers an engaging slice of Marble Canyon’s climbing scene: modern bolts meet natural limestone challenges, crafting a multi-pitch adventure that will sharpen technique, test composure, and deliver a thoroughly rewarding mountain experience.
Despite modern protection, expect occasional loose rock and bolt spacing that demands caution. The descent requires a 70m rope to avoid exposed downclimbing; beware of complex walk-off terrain if choosing to hike down. Always wear a helmet and double-check anchor setups before rappelling.
Use a 70m rope for rappels to avoid difficult downclimbing on pitch 8.
Expect loose limestone; test holds before committing.
Leave heavy packs at belays, especially before the chimney pitch.
Approach terrain is rugged but accessible—allow extra time for navigation.
12 draws and a 60 or 70 meter rope are recommended. All anchors are bolted, but some sections involve sustained climbing between bolts, so a good assortment of quickdraws and confidence in bolt clipping at runouts will serve well.
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