Rising boldly from the rugged Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, the Smart Ass Arete offers climbers a direct and approachable route that avoids the intimidating offwidths dominating the Cheekbone buttress. This single-pitch, 50-foot climb packs a satisfying blend of technical moves and solid protection, making it an excellent option for trad climbers who want a confident step onto the rock without the commitment of a multi-pitch adventure.

The rock here is sharp and reliable, with an arete that demands precise footwork and steady hand jams. As you ascend, the texture of the granite-like stone grinds against your palms, while the air hangs cool and fresh, carrying distant birdsong from the surrounding woodland. The imposing cliffs rise above a canopy of green that shades the approach trail, offering a cool respite even on warmer days.

Protection on this route is straightforward. A standard rack up to 1 inch covers the placements adequately, with the possibility of doubling up on smaller pieces for extra security along this clean line. The climb’s 5.9 grade holds a solid challenge without venturing into intimidating territory, making it a reliable test-piece for solid trad technique without overstretching.

Approaching the Smart Ass Arete is pleasantly simple, with a well-beaten path leading through forested terrain to the base of the cliff. The hike takes about 15 minutes from the main trailhead near Welsford, weaving through mixed hardwoods and patches of mossy stone. The area around Cochrane Lane Cliffs is quiet and unspoiled, a lesser-known corner of New Brunswick’s climbing scene that rewards those willing to explore.

Whether you’re stepping into trad climbing or adding a straightforward 5.9 to your logbook, this route offers an inviting experience. The climb feels like a conversation with the rock itself — direct, clear, and full of subtle challenges. Notably, it also serves as a smart alternative when offwidths feel less than appealing, keeping the focus on technical movement rather than brute strength.

Plan your ascent for mid-morning or late afternoon when the arete catches softer light and the temperature remains comfortable. Waterproof boots or shoes with tight edges will help you gain purchase on the sometimes slick footholds, and layering is wise given the often cool coastal climate here. Bring enough water and keep an eye on the weather, as conditions can shift quickly in this part of the world.

Smart Ass Arete speaks to the spirit of concentrated effort balanced with accessibility. It invites you to trust your feet, read the rock clearly, and enjoy a sharp, clean line on a classic New Brunswick cliff face. For those who relish trad climbing with straightforward protection and no nonsense, this climb delivers a reliable and rewarding experience.