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Slippery When Wet: Bold Sport Climbing in Baby Pneu

Gatineau, Canada
sport
short pitch
technical moves
sidepull
quartzite
bolted anchors
Western CWM
Length: 25 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Slippery When Wet
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Slippery When Wet in Baby Pneu is a short but punchy 25-foot sport climb, offering large holds and a technical sidepull crux. Ideal for climbers seeking a quick challenge with practical protection in Gatineau Park’s quieter Western CWM sector."

Slippery When Wet: Bold Sport Climbing in Baby Pneu

Slippery When Wet stands out as a compact but challenging sport climb within the rugged confines of Baby Pneu, tucked inside Gatineau Park’s Western CWM sector. This single-pitch, 25-foot route demands finesse and body awareness, especially when moisture slicks its surface, living up to its aptly descriptive name. The climb opens with large, confident holds that provide solid purchase, allowing you to settle into the rhythm before reaching for a demanding sidepull. From there, more generous grips offer brief respite, balancing effort with flow. Though compact, the route’s bouldery style requires precise footwork and good control as you manage the transition between holds. The rock here is typical Gatineau gritty quartzite, offering reliable friction when dry but testing your edge confidence after rain or morning dew.

Approaching Slippery When Wet is a straightforward affair, with a short hike through Western CWM’s forested trails that offer a quiet pocket of wilderness less traveled than more prominent sectors. The climb’s setting is a mix of granite outcrops and thick woods, which brighten as the day progresses with filtered sunlight. Geared as a sport climb, this route is fully equipped with bolts that secure the ascent, enticing climbers to challenge themselves without the full burden of placing traditional protection.

Though brief, Slippery When Wet demands respect, especially from those eyeing the 5.10d rating. The crux requires committing moves that feel stiff for the brief pitch, particularly if conditions turn slick. It rewards those prepared with sticky rubber shoes and a solid warm-up, even if just for the short time on the wall. Its compact nature makes it a perfect candidate for a quick technical project during a day spent exploring the broad outdoor climbing opportunities Gatineau offers.

Pragmatically, having bolted anchors simplifies descent, allowing an easy rap back to the base. However, be mindful of the route’s exposure to the elements; early mornings or wet weather can transform holding edges into tests of balance and mental focus. Carry hydration and prepare with layered clothing due to the forest’s fluctuating microclimate. Slippery When Wet invites climbers looking to sharpen sport climbing skills in a spot that merges natural ruggedness with practical access. It’s a solid stepping stone for those eager to push into Quebec’s vibrant climbing scene without the marathon approaches or high alpine challenges.

Climber Safety

Rock can be deceptively slick when wet or covered in morning dew, increasing the potential for slips. The approach trail is stable but watch for loose stones at the base of the climb. Helmets are advised due to occasional falling debris from above.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Avoid climbing early in the morning or after rain as the quartzite becomes slick.

Sticky rubber shoes greatly improve grip on the technical sidepull moves.

Approach via established forest trails in Western CWM for a quick and quiet hike.

Bring layers for variable temperatures in the shaded forest environment.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d grade here is fairly true to its difficulty, with a defined crux that demands solid technique and good finger strength. Unlike longer routes, the grade feels concentrated in a few moves, making the effort intense but brief. Compared to other Western CWM climbs, Slippery When Wet presents a steeper, more technical feel in a compact form.

Gear Requirements

The climb is fully bolted with a chain of bolts leading to bolted anchors. Standard sport rack and personal quickdraws are sufficient for protection.

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Tags

sport
short pitch
technical moves
sidepull
quartzite
bolted anchors
Western CWM