"Sledgehammer offers a focused 60-foot sport climb on Newfoundland's coastal granite, blending technical face climbing with secure bolt protection. Whether you choose the easier traverse start or the steeper direct line, this route promises engaging moves framed by salty sea air and rugged terrain."
Sledgehammer cuts through the rugged granite of Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula with a taut intensity that promises a sharp climb balanced between technical precision and accessible challenge. This single-pitch sport route rises about 60 feet on the Main Face in Flatrock, offering climbers a refined 5.10d experience that tests finger strength and body positioning on closely spaced bolts. The route begins with a newer low start option that has recalibrated the difficulty, making the climb approachable while maintaining its climbing integrity. Starting from the first two bolts of the nearby Over Easy route, climbers move rightward on a thin, horizontal rail to meet the original line's second bolt, easing into the movement with a dynamic rhythm that feels more like dance than struggle.
For those eyeing a more direct and demanding ascent, the original high first bolt beckons—requiring a stick clip to handle a steep 5.12 crux down and right of the bolt. The direct start demands laser focus, precise foot placements, and fluid technique to navigate the thin face moves without faltering. Regardless of the chosen approach, the protection is well thought out, with ten bolts stringing the route to a solid lower-off anchor positioned beneath a massive boulder, serving as a trusted landing zone at the climb’s end.
Flatrock’s granite, weathered by Atlantic winds and waves, holds a rough texture that rewards clean shoes and polished edging. The site’s coastal exposure means climbers experience fresh sea breezes mingling with the scent of salt and pine, lending a crisp vibrancy to each move. Its orientation catches morning and early afternoon light, ideal for early starts before afternoon shadows cool the granite’s surface. The approach is straightforward, a short walk from parking near Flatrock village, with well-defined paths and minimal elevation change—perfect for pre-climb warmups without taxing the legs.
Sledgehammer’s charm lies in its balance: a route that invites both dedicated sport climbers chasing technical sequences and those stepping up to Newfoundlands’ playful yet demanding granite. The root access, attentive bolt spacing, and clear lower-off make it a smart addition to any day of climbing here. Keep your chalk bag ready and double-check your stick clip technique, especially if you opt for the direct start, where a missed clip equals a costly fall. Flatrock offers a rewarding blend of coastal drama and climbing precision—a perfect setting to sharpen skills or revel in the pure pleasure of sharp, vertical movement.
The direct start requires a stick clip which can be tricky, so be sure to practice this beforehand. The route’s close bolt spacing minimizes risk but falling near the steep lower crux demands solid protection and cautious movement. Coastal winds can affect stability, so plan your climb during calm conditions when possible.
Arrive early to catch the morning sun on the wall and avoid afternoon shadows cooling the granite.
Bring climbing shoes with solid edging for the thin granite features.
Practice stick clipping before your first ascent to navigate the direct approach safely.
Stay aware of coastal winds, which can shift quickly and affect balance on exposed face sections.
The climb features 10 bolts with a lower-off anchor beneath a large boulder. Stick clipping is mandatory for the direct high start and recommended for safety, while the traverse variation reduces the need for a clip but still requires sharp movement.
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