HomeClimbingSimply Complicated

Simply Complicated Trad Climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
crack climbing
single pitch
traditional gear
beginner friendly
exposed block
quick climb
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Simply Complicated
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Simply Complicated is a single-pitch trad climb set in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. It guides you through easy cracks and a steep, demanding block, combining perfect beginner challenges with hands-on rock experience."

Simply Complicated Trad Climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Simply Complicated offers a concise yet rewarding trad climbing experience tucked into the rugged terrain of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch climb invites climbers to engage directly with the rock’s natural features, moving fluidly up a series of approachable cracks before confronting a prominent, steep block that demands careful footwork and precise jamming techniques. The crack system rewards patience and skill, with smooth transitions leading to an exposed section where the rock leans sharply, testing your balance as you navigate upward. The rock beneath your hands feels robust yet raw, a steady companion pushing you towards the summit anchor.

The setting amplifies the climb’s appeal: clear mountain air, the whisper of wind through pines, and distant views of the St. Vrain River weaving through the canyon floor. The approach wanders through lightly forested slopes, offering a chance to steady your breath and sharpen your focus before tackling the route. The climb’s short length (just one pitch) makes it ideal for a half-day outing, suitable for beginners ready to transition into traditional protection ethics or seasoned climbers seeking a quick, hands-on crack climb.

Gear requirements are straightforward — a single rack extending to a #2 cam provides all the protection necessary. This simplicity keeps the pack light and the pace steady while ensuring security against unexpected slips or tricky moves. The protection placements demand some finesse but nothing overly technical, making the climb both a practical learning route and a satisfying challenge.

Descending is uncomplicated with one rope; from the anchors, a straightforward rappel gets you safely back to solid ground, building confidence for your next objective. Climb this route with midday sun warming the wall or early morning shade to keep your hands cool, and aim for spring or early fall when the air carries a crisp freshness, and the river below murmurs encouragement.

Simply Complicated balances ease and engagement, providing a tangible connection to the stone and the landscape. Prepare with sturdy shoes, bring plenty of water, and set aside time to enjoy not just the climb but the quiet moments between your moves — the breath of the canyon, the rough texture of granite under fingertips, and the steady heartbeat of the wilderness surrounding you.

Climber Safety

The steep block near the top requires controlled movement and solid jam placements — slipping here can result in a fall. Check gear thoroughly before committing and double-check anchor reliability. The rock can feel sharp in places, so gloves may help with abrasion.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the rock excessively.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for secure jams on the block.

Bring a medium-sized rack focusing on cams to #2 for confident placements.

Hydrate adequately before approach; water sources are limited near the trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating on Simply Complicated feels approachable but precise; the grade leans slightly soft, accommodating newer trad climbers while still demanding clean technique through the steep block. Compared to other local climbs, it sits comfortably at entry-level trad climbs in the St. Vrain area but stands out with its prominent block sequence requiring solid jam and footwork skills.

Gear Requirements

A single trad rack reaching up to a #2 cam covers all necessary protection. One rope suffices for the descent from the anchors.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
traditional gear
beginner friendly
exposed block
quick climb