HomeClimbingSilly Putty

Silly Putty Trad Crack in Tight Canyon

Owen Sound, Canada
trad crack
single pitch
technical
V-groove
Ontario climbing
Devil's Glen
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Silly Putty
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Silly Putty challenges climbers with a sharp, technical trad crack tucked just off Tight Canyon’s exit. This concise 5.9 pitch blends precise gear placements with a unique V-shaped groove that tests your technique and focus."

Silly Putty Trad Crack in Tight Canyon

Silly Putty offers a straightforward yet demanding trad climb tucked within the rugged confines of Tight Canyon, in the lesser-known stretches of Devil's Glen, Ontario South Bouldering and Rock. This single-pitch 5.9 crack climb sits about five meters right of the canyon’s exit, inviting climbers to engage with a clean, sharp line that tests technique more than sheer power. The route begins on a solid crack that quickly funnels into a distinctive V-shaped groove, demanding precise hand jams and foot placements. Despite its brief length, this climb packs a punch for the grade, pushing climbers to apply skills usually reserved for harder routes. Here, the rock feels alive—a tactile, gritty surface that soaks up the surrounding quiet, broken only by the occasional creak of branches stirred by a faint breeze.

Accessing Silly Putty involves navigating Tight Canyon’s rocky approach, itself a scenic walk with intermittent glimpses of open sky through steep walls. Pay attention to your footing on the natural stone underfoot; it’s quick to lose purchase if damp or covered with loose debris. With limited fixed anchors—possibly a few at the top—this route demands solid traditional gear placement, emphasizing a climber’s proficiency with cams and nuts, especially in the narrower V-groove where protection can feel more challenging.

For climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills within a peaceful environment, Silly Putty offers a direct and rewarding challenge. The location supports an experience that’s equal parts solitude and technical climbing focus, ideal for those prepared with the right equipment and mindset. As the sun shifts across the sky, the canyon walls cast changing shadows that shape the feel of the climb, making timing a factor if you’re seeking optimal conditions. Early to mid-day tends to offer the best lighting and comfortable temperatures.

Before heading out, ensure your gear list covers a range of cams suitable for thin cracks and be prepared to place protection with care given the route’s subtle features. Hydration is key, as the dry climate can sneak up with warmth, despite the shade provided within the canyon. Leave no trace behind—this quiet corner of Ontario deserves respect to remain as inviting as when you arrived.

Climber Safety

Limited fixed anchors mean gear placement is critical—check each piece thoroughly before committing. The rocky terrain near the base can be slippery, especially when wet, so mind your step on the approach. Seasonal moisture might make rock slick, so prioritize dry days.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Tight Canyon trail; watch for loose rocks on the footing near the climb’s base.

Early morning climbs offer cooler temperatures and better lighting conditions.

Test placements carefully as some cracks narrow dramatically in the groove section.

Bring enough water and protect the area by packing out all trash.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Silly Putty feels solid though deceptively tricky, especially due to the crux within the V-shaped groove. The grade leans slightly stiff for local routes as it demands precise footwork and confident gear placements. Climbers used to finger cracks will find this a satisfying technical challenge without the need for overpowering moves.

Gear Requirements

Expect to rely heavily on a standard trad rack focusing on small- to medium-sized cams for secure placements within the narrow crack and V-shaped groove. Fixed anchors may be sparse or unreliable, so bring long slings to extend placements and avoid rope drag.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
technical
V-groove
Ontario climbing
Devil's Glen