HomeClimbingSidescraper

Sidescraper at Squirrelhide Crag: A Classic Trad Route in Colorado's Lost Creek Wilderness

Bailey, Colorado United States
hand crack
fist crack
chimney
offwidth
multi-pitch
trad
Colorado climbing
Lost Creek Wilderness
Length: 220 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Sidescraper
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sidescraper at Squirrelhide Crag unfolds over three pitches of steady crack climbing just left of the iconic dihedral. Offering reliable protection and varied moves, it’s a solid 5.9- traditional route in Colorado’s scenic Lost Creek Wilderness that balances accessible challenge with rewarding exposure."

Sidescraper at Squirrelhide Crag: A Classic Trad Route in Colorado's Lost Creek Wilderness

Tucked into the rugged folds of Squirrelhide Crag, the Sidescraper route offers a straightforward yet invigorating traditional climb that demands focus and steady footwork. This three-pitch climb stretches over 220 feet of compact granite, unfolding on the far left side of the crag where an inviting dihedral sets the stage about 80 feet above the forest floor. The approach places climbers directly into a platform where the rock’s texture and angles come alive under your hands and feet.

The first pitch is an approachable introduction, a 5.7 crack that wedges itself just right into a corner marked by an old log, lodged stubbornly about 30 feet in. Despite attempts to dislodge it, the log remains a fixture—a quirky landmark that announces the climb’s raw character. This pitch ends at a small ledge, protected by two hand-drilled bolts providing a secure belay. This section is perfect for those refining their crack climbing skills, balancing finesse with a steady rhythm.

Pitch two is the heart of the route and worth the focus it requires. A perfectly formed hand-to-fist crack carries you upward for roughly 35 meters, inviting confident placements and encouraging fluid movement. The crack’s generous width and consistent protection make it both satisfying and sustained. When you reach the small tree perched slightly left, the belay spot allows a moment to soak in surrounding views and breathe before stocking up for the final push.

The last pitch ventures through a less distinct chimney and offwidth section. It’s a puzzle of sorts—demands patient body positioning and solid foot jams as you negotiate the space to the summit. While not the most visually striking pitch, it adds a layer of variety and challenge, rounding out the climb with a rewarding top-out.

The descent is straightforward: a short walk off to the left leads back to creekside trails, making the route a solid half-day commitment from approach to finish. The protection is textbook trad, with doubles to #3 Camalot providing confidence for placing gear in the diverse crack sizes. The rock quality is typically solid, though the entrenched log on the first pitch adds a natural quirk that climbers must respect.

For adventurers seeking a textured, hands-on climb in South Platte’s Lost Creek Wilderness, Sidescraper combines manageable difficulty with engaging crack work and an accessible descent. Early season and late summer find the crag pleasantly shaded in the morning and afternoon, making it a versatile choice almost year-round. Whether you’re sharpening crack techniques or carving out your next objective in central Colorado, this route delivers solid mileage against a backdrop of pine-scented air and whispering creeks.

Climber Safety

The log embedded in the first pitch crack is stable but demands care to avoid dislodging; maintain controlled movements near it. The chimney on the final pitch requires cautious foot and hand placement as the rock can be less featured and more physical. Also, be prepared for loose rock on the descent path—stick to the walk-off trail to avoid scrambling hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length220 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the crag’s left side.

Expect a log jammed into the first pitch crack—don't attempt to remove it; climb around it carefully.

Doubles to #3 Camalot are essential for solid gear placements on sustained crack pitches.

Walk off left at the top to avoid complicated downclimbing and connect with the trail system.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels fair with a moderately challenging crux on the second pitch where hand-to-fist jams require precise technique and good protection. The first pitch is easier and the last pitch, while less obvious, provides technical offwidth moves that add to the route's overall difficulty. Compared to other Lost Creek routes, Sidescraper sits comfortably in the moderate trad category with well-spaced challenges that reward clean climbing.

Gear Requirements

Bring doubles of cams up to #3 Camalot to handle the range of crack sizes—protection is straightforward with well-bolted belays on pitch one and natural gear placements throughout.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Sidescraper and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

hand crack
fist crack
chimney
offwidth
multi-pitch
trad
Colorado climbing
Lost Creek Wilderness