HomeClimbingSide Street

Side Street Trad Climb at The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
hands jam
single pitch
moderate crack
traditional
smoke bluffs
Length: 115 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Side Street
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Side Street offers a single pitch trad climb blending firm hands jams and precise finger cracks at Squamish's Smoke Bluffs. This route extends Piece of Pie with a steeper section rewarding technical crack skills in a classic coastal granite setting."

Side Street Trad Climb at The Smoke Bluffs

Side Street at Crag X offers a compelling blend of technical finger jams and accessible hands/fist cracks set against the stark rock walls of The Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch route stretches 115 feet and starts with a right-facing dihedral, easing the climber into the climb's rhythm before transitioning right into a short but satisfying hands/fist crack nicknamed "the pie." For climbers looking for a full challenge, Side Street extends beyond what’s often called Piece of Pie, adding a more demanding upper section with a discontinuous finger crack that tests precision and patience.

The first part of the climb sits comfortably at 5.8, a warm-up that invites exploration of the rock’s texture and offers secure stances at well-placed holds. Once past the anchors, the route continues upward through a short, steep section where the finger crack narrows and requires steady hand placements and good footwork. This technical stretch separates confident crack climbers from the rest and rewards those who thrive on delicate jams before the crack finally eases off, allowing a smooth finish to the belay station.

Protection on Side Street is straightforward but thorough. The recommended rack involves doubles in small to medium cams from sizes 0.2 to 0.75, along with nuts for smaller placements. Singles in the larger sizes (1-4) provide additional security, though experienced climbers comfortable with fist and hands jams in the 5.7 range might skip some of the larger cams for a lighter rack. The rock is generally solid, but placing gear in the discontinuous finger crack demands attention to detail.

Squamish’s coastal climate plays a role in the climb’s experience. The Smoke Bluffs sit at a convenient distance from town, accessible via well-trodden trails that wind through patches of pine and cedar. The area is known for its reliable friction, even in damp conditions, but it’s best to avoid climbing after heavy rain to preserve gear placements and maintain safety. Side Street faces mainly southeast, receiving morning sun and shaded relief by afternoon, making early starts ideal for stable conditions and clearer holds.

Approaching Side Street involves a brisk 15-20 minute hike from the main parking area at The Smoke Bluffs, following clear signage through forested paths with occasional glimpses of higher peaks. The approach is manageable and a good warm-up, though the last segment requires careful footing on rocky terrain near the base.

Descent is straightforward with a single rappel from the anchors back to the ground or a careful downclimb for those comfortable with exposed moves. Climbers are advised to double-check anchor setup and rock conditions when planning their descent, as some loose rock can be encountered near the belay station.

Side Street is a solid trad pitch suited for those eager to push into moderate cracks with a bit of sustained finger work. Its blend of accessible crack climbing, with a technical upper portion, makes it appealing to a wide range of climbers seeking to experience Squamish’s crack climbing scene in a setting that balances adventure with thoughtful protection and approach. Whether extending a Piece of Pie or climbing Side Street outright, expect a tactile connection with granite, punctuated by moments that demand precision and composure on seemingly straightforward terrain.

Climber Safety

Pay attention to the discontinuous finger crack’s rock quality before trusting small placements, especially following wet conditions. Loose flakes near the belay station require careful movement and secure anchor setup.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb early for optimal friction and less direct sun exposure.

Check weather conditions; avoid climbing just after heavy rain to keep gear placements secure.

Use sticky rubber shoes suited for crack climbing to maintain grip.

Rappel anchors are solid but inspect for loose rock before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10+ rating captures the crux found in the sharp finger crack section—steady, technical jams that demand both finger strength and precise foot placement. The initial 5.8 section offers a comfortable entry, making the overall rating feel accurate and justified. Climbers familiar with Squamish cracks like Piece of Pie will find the upper extension more sustained but manageable.

Gear Requirements

Bring double cams from 0.2 to 0.75 and a selection of nuts. Singles from 1 to 4 are useful but can be pared down for confident climbers comfortable with 5.7 fists and hands jams near the top.

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Tags

finger crack
hands jam
single pitch
moderate crack
traditional
smoke bluffs