"Sickle weaves five pitches of varied trad climbing into a dynamic route on The Apron. With finger cracks, ledges, and a cruxy roof move, it challenges intermediate climbers seeking a sustained 5.9- experience amid Squamish’s rugged granite walls."
Sickle offers a rewarding climb on The Apron near Squamish, British Columbia, blending classic trad moves with a sustained 5.9- challenge over five pitches and 500 feet of vertical rock. This route invites climbers to navigate a series of slabby faces, finger cracks, and ledge traverses, threading through natural features like resilient trees growing from the rock itself. The approach to the climb is straightforward, with clear access to the base of Diedre, where this route shares its initial moves before branching right into its own sequence.
The first pitch sets the tone with a moderate 5.7 slab and jug ascent, arriving at a bolted anchor that offers a good rest and vantage point. Pitch two pushes you upward and slightly right towards a prominent tree emerging from a slab corner with irregular finger cracks, creating an engaging gear belay spot. The rock here demands precise footwork, rewarding steady climbers with solid placements and room to breathe.
Pitch three introduces the crux of the route: a 5.9 sequence involving a small roof guarded by a tree growing in the crack. This move requires controlled power and confidence on tricky slab, as the crack thins and a delicate traverse leads to a sizable ledge. Avoiding the bolt from the neighboring Over the Rainbow route here is crucial, as Sickle stays left toward a secure tree belay.
The final two pitches ease back to 5.7 but maintain interest by following a long right-facing corner up and left along the ledge system. These sections give a welcome chance to recover while staying sharp with gear placements and movement over horizontal cracks and slab. Protection calls mainly for nuts and cams up to two inches, fitting well with the route’s traditional character.
The granite has a solid, slightly polished feel common in Squamish's more traveled areas, giving a tactile connection to the mountain while requiring deliberate balance and maintained awareness. The route’s position on The Apron captures early morning sun, fading into afternoon shade—ideal for climbing in warmer months to avoid excessive heat or lingering dampness.
Sickle’s mix of slab, crack, and subtle roof features offers a diverse climbing experience that is approachable for confident intermediate climbers looking to test themselves on a sustained multi-pitch trad climb. Planning your ascent with efficient gear management and an eye on weather will enhance your adventure. Take care on the exposed sections and utilize solid placements to ensure safety.
Descend by rappelling from the gear anchor at the top, using double ropes to reach the base efficiently. Pay attention to rope positioning around edges to prevent abrasion. This route stands as a signature offering within Squamish’s renowned climbing ecosystem, combining accessible challenges with the rugged mountain environment. Whether your goal is to hone crack skills or savor the rhythm of linked pitches on granite, Sickle delivers a mobile, focused experience that lingers long after the final clip.
Watch for sharp edges near rappel anchors; friction can damage ropes if not carefully managed. The roof move on pitch 3 demands confident slab climbing and secure gear placements to reduce fall potential. Weather can change quickly in Squamish—avoid climbs during wet conditions as the granite becomes slick.
Start early to enjoy morning sun on The Apron and cooler conditions.
Carefully avoid the bolt on Over the Rainbow during pitch 3 traverse.
Bring sturdy shoes with reliable edging ability for slab sections.
Plan your rappels carefully to avoid rope drag on sharp edges.
Standard trad gear including a set of nuts and cams up to 2 inches covers the route well. Expect to place protection actively especially through the finger crack and corner sections; no fixed gear beyond the belay bolts is present.
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