"Sibling Rivalry stands out as a sharp, single-pitch challenge on Lumpy Ridge’s granite face. Combining delicate crack climbing with a bolt-assisted roof section, the route offers a compact but rewarding test for climbers eager to sample Colorado’s alpine rock."
Sibling Rivalry offers climbers a focused burst of challenge on Lumpy Ridge’s rugged face, just right of the well-known Batrachian Dihedral. This single-pitch route blends trad and sport elements, providing a climb that tests crack skills and technical moves within a concise 100-foot ascent. The climb starts on approachable, easy terrain known as Root of All Evil before moving into a finely balanced 5.8 crack system that demands steady footwork and attention to hand jams. A roof near the midpoint introduces a crux with a newer bolt pegged at a hard 5.9, requiring both power and precision.
After surmounting the roof, the route shifts left, picking up four bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor. From this stance, the dramatic options for descent present themselves: either a 160-foot rappel over the edge of the Batrachian Dihedral, offering a bird’s-eye view of the vertical landscape, or a traverse right into an easier crack system connected to the adjacent Good Timing route that boasts a walk-off descent. Both exit choices demand care and route-finding awareness.
The environment is classic Colorado alpine rock—solid granite etched with cracks and roof features that challenge both body and mind. The area hangs above Estes Park Valley, delivering crisp mountain air and views that reward every handhold. Lumpy Ridge’s characteristic exposure and texture mean climbers need a reliable rack; a light standard set topped with a #2 Camalot proves sufficient for protection, especially where crack gear is essential to secure rests. Bolts ease the roof section but do not lessen the need for sharp crack climbing technique.
Climbers approaching Sibling Rivalry should prepare for a short but punchy experience, suited for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills without a long slog. Timing your climb for cooler parts of the day enhances friction and endurance, with spring and fall often providing ideal conditions. The route’s location within the dense climbing cluster of the Estes Park Valley also means a moderate approach, weaving through pine-embellished trails that welcome warm-ups and preps. Hydration and rock shoes with good edging abilities are musts, as the technical moves leave little room for mistake.
In all, Sibling Rivalry delivers a compact, quality 5.9- climb on solid granite with varied moves and efficient protection. It’s a proving ground for climbers comfortable transitioning between sport bolts and traditional placements, with the added bonus of magnificent Colorado mountain atmosphere just minutes from Estes Park.
The rappel off the top requires careful setup and attention to rope management due to the 160-foot drop. Alternatively, the traverse to the Good Timing walk-off involves route-finding on exposed ledges—stay vigilant and ensure clear communication with your partner.
Start early to avoid the afternoon heat and enhance rock friction on the crack section.
Plan your descent carefully—either a 160-foot rappel or a right-side traverse to the Good Timing walk-off.
Wear shoes with stiff edging to manage the technical crux at the roof.
Lightweight rack works best; avoid overloading, as the route favors precision placements.
A standard light trad rack with a #2 Camalot is essential for crack protection, complemented by four bolts through the roof and upper face sections. Focus on secure placements in the crack and be prepared for a mix of natural gear and fixed anchors.
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