HomeClimbingSharp Teeth

Sharp Teeth: A Beginner's Gateway to Trad Climbing on Avalon Peninsula

St. John's, Canada
crack climb
beginner friendly
hand crack
short route
trad gear
top rope accessible
atlantic coast
Length: 22 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Sharp Teeth
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sharp Teeth presents an effortless introduction to traditional climbing on Newfoundland’s rugged Avalon Peninsula. This brief but engaging crack route is ideal for beginners ready to connect with real rock outside the gym."

Sharp Teeth: A Beginner's Gateway to Trad Climbing on Avalon Peninsula

Sharp Teeth offers an inviting introduction to traditional climbing on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula. This concise 22-foot crack climb demands focus yet remains accessible to those stepping onto real rock for the first time. The route carves a clean, vertical line through Flatrock's rugged terrain, inviting climbers to engage directly with the natural features of hand and finger cracks. As you ascend, a large hand ledge and two horizontal cracks offer resting spots and placements, breaking up the vertical push and lending rhythm to the climb. The bolt anchor, positioned just above and slightly to the left, provides a reassuring finish point after a short scramble to set up your top rope or trad protection.

Approached by a quick, straightforward scramble, Sharp Teeth feels far removed from the intimidating faces and sprawling walls of larger climbing areas. It’s a spot where the boldness of outdoor rock meets the comfort of simplicity—ideal for beginners or anyone familiarizing themselves with placing gear and vertical movement. The surrounding landscape, part of Blood Bath in Newfoundland’s Flatrock region, frames the climb with raw coastal energy; salt-touched air and exposed outcrops hint at the power of the nearby North Atlantic.

Although brief, the climb demands the right gear and preparation. A standard trad rack suffices alongside the fixed bolts at the anchor, but climbers should use caution given the moderate exposure and occasional sharp edges along the crack. For those new to trad climbing, Sharp Teeth stands as a perfect controlled challenge—easy to access, low in commitment, yet authentic in feel. Timing your visit during dry, mild weather ensures solid rock conditions and safer footing on the scramble approach. Footwear with good grip will help tame the short route and the path to the anchor.

The climb’s straightforward nature combined with the rugged Newfoundland setting guarantees a rewarding experience. It’s a rare chance to get your hands on traditional gear, experience real crack climbing, and soak up Atlantic coastal breezes without committing to a towering wall or remote approach. Sharp Teeth embodies the approachable spirit of Newfoundland’s climbing scene—compact in scale, rich in texture, and perfectly suited for a next step in outdoor climbing.

Climber Safety

While the climb is short, the approach involves loose rock and a brief scramble—maintain mindfulness on footing. Fixed bolts at the anchor simplify descent, but ensure proper rigging and double-check placements during the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length22 feet

Local Tips

Approach via a short scramble on rocky terrain—sturdy shoes with good grip are essential.

Check weather conditions; the route is best climbed during stable, dry spells to avoid slippery holds.

Bring a standard trad rack and rappel or lower from two fixed bolts at the anchor.

Ideal for novices, consider pairing this with local instruction if this is your first outdoor trad experience.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straightforward 5.6, Sharp Teeth provides a soft grade that suits climbers new to outdoor trad. The crack’s moderate size and limited height mean minimal committing moves, with no hidden cruxes that elevate the difficulty. Compared to other local routes, it holds true to its beginner-friendly reputation without feeling watered down.

Gear Requirements

A basic trad rack combined with two bolts at the anchor offers all you need. The climb is short and straightforward, allowing new trad climbers to practice gear placements with confidence.

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Tags

crack climb
beginner friendly
hand crack
short route
trad gear
top rope accessible
atlantic coast