HomeClimbingSeven Deadly Stems

Seven Deadly Stems: Sport Climbing at La Fortaleza Escondida

El Potrero Chico, Mexico
water notch
sport climbing
short pitch
technical
5.12a
El Potrero Chico
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Seven Deadly Stems
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Seven Deadly Stems is a compact, powerful 5.12a sport climb that follows a clear bolt line up to a striking water notch atop La Fortaleza Escondida. Perfect for climbers seeking a short but intense challenge in the rugged northern Mexico landscape."

Seven Deadly Stems: Sport Climbing at La Fortaleza Escondida

Seven Deadly Stems offers a focused, exhilarating sport climb that takes you straight up the distinctive water notch near the summit of La Fortaleza Escondida. This route, stretching a compact 100 feet, demands steady technique and composure on its sustained 5.12a face, making it a rewarding challenge for climbers ready to test their limits in a dramatic setting. The climb’s vertical walls give way to a narrow water notch at the top, a natural feature that both shapes the final moves and offers an intriguing finish.

From the base, the route rises with a clean line of 14 well-spaced bolts that provide confident protection for most climbers. The rock here is solid and textured, offering varied holds that encourage precise footwork and dynamic sequences. Those climbing with ropes shorter than 70 meters will appreciate the convenience of a sub-anchor positioned inside the water notch, allowing for a safe and straightforward belay or retreat if needed.

The approach to La Fortaleza Escondida places you within a dramatic cliff band, outlined by rugged ridges and sharp features that catch the light as the day progresses. Emerging from the bustling climbing hub of El Potrero Chico, this area feels slightly remote yet accessible, inviting a quiet focus amidst its commanding walls. The latitude and longitude place you in northern Mexico’s high desert landscape, where dry air and clear skies are frequent companions.

Climbers should come prepared for the physical rigor of 5.12a moves that test finger strength and endurance equally. The route’s protection is sport-style, well bolted but requiring confident clipping under sustained effort. Timing your climb to avoid the afternoon sun on this west-facing face will improve comfort and friction on the rock, with morning light illuminating the route and the surrounding peaks.

This climb suits those looking to push their sport climbing grades in a striking environment without lengthy approaches. The compact one-pitch nature makes it ideal for day visits, with enough challenge to leave you satisfied and eager to explore nearby classics. Acknowledging the route’s rating and the nuances of the water notch finish helps you plan gear, rope length, and rest strategies to maximize success.

Whether you’re drawn by the allure of El Potrero Chico’s renowned face or simply seeking a meticulously bolted route with character, Seven Deadly Stems offers a blend of technical demand and natural drama. Hydrate well, wear shoes with solid edging capability, and prepare to engage with rock that dares you to ascend with precision and spirit. The experience balances raw physicality with the quiet thrill of climbing into a unique notch that feels alive under your hands and feet.

Climber Safety

Watch your rope management near the water notch top; the sub-anchor is convenient but requires careful clip-in to avoid rope drag or loose rock. The rock quality is solid but remain vigilant for any loose edges on approach and at the climb’s start.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing face.

Use shoes with firm edging to tackle sustained technical moves.

Bring at least a 70m rope to fully reach the main anchor; sub-anchor allows flexibility for shorter ropes.

Stay hydrated—northern Mexico’s dry climate can rapidly dehydrate climbers.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.12a, Seven Deadly Stems offers sustained difficulty without overly intimidating cruxes, making the grade feel appropriately challenging but fair. The route demands consistent precision; climbers familiar with other El Potrero Chico sport routes will find comparable effort here, though the water notch finish adds a unique twist.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 14 fixed bolts and anchors; a sub-anchor inside the water notch is key for short rope teams or for a secure belay at the top.

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Tags

water notch
sport climbing
short pitch
technical
5.12a
El Potrero Chico