"SETI offers a concentrated sport climb on Shelf Road’s Far Side wall, blending juggy starts with slopey, technical arête moves. This single pitch is a perfect test for finger strength and precision footwork, set against the striking limestone backdrop near Canon City."
SETI on Shelf Road’s Far Side wall offers a compact, focused challenge perfect for climbers seeking technical sport climbing with a distinct emphasis on finger strength and precise footwork. The 40-foot single pitch climbs a striking arête, inviting you to engage right-side ‘juggy’ holds early on before transitioning to more delicate, slopey grips that test balance and control. The route begins with solid, positive right-hand holds leading to the first clip (C1), giving you a moment to orient your approach and prepare for the move out right to the second bolt (C2). This pitch requires confident foot placement on subtle edges as you work around the corner, demanding attention to detail in your body positioning.
Beyond C2, the climbing unfolds along a smooth arête where the holds become a blend of slopey crimps and scattered jugs, rewarding body tension and finesse over brute strength. The protection is straightforward—four well-spaced bolts lead to chained anchors—offering reliable security so you can focus on the movement without anxiety. Expect the rock to feel solid but with sections requiring thoughtful hand placements to maintain rhythm and conserve energy.
Located in the renowned Shelf Road area near Canon City, Colorado, SETI is accessible via a short approach that threads through a semi-arid desert landscape, scattered with scrub and pinon pines. The surrounding terrain basks in plentiful sun, ideal for those cooler months, though summer climbers should prepare for heat and carry extra water. The route’s face faces a favorable aspect for morning or late afternoon ascents, avoiding the mid-day sun that can bake the wall.
If you’re sharpening your sport-climbing technique or craving a succinct route that delivers focused, engaging moves on quality limestone, SETI is a rewarding option. While it’s rated 5.8-, the engagement level and finger-intensive holds mean this route offers a bit more than a straightforward moderate climb. Planning your climb midweek or early morning ensures quieter walls and cooler conditions, enhancing your experience among Shelf Road’s well-preserved crags. Bring shoes with sticky rubber, tape if your skin gets easily torn, and a light rack focusing mostly on quickdraws given the bolted nature of the route. The approach is under 10 minutes, allowing for a quick in-and-out session or a warm-up before exploring more extended sport lines nearby.
Keep an eye on the somewhat sparse ledge at the anchors; it offers limited rest and no natural protection beyond the bolts. The rock is generally solid, but approach with caution on loose gravel patches along the short trail. Avoid climbing in wet conditions as the slopey holds become dangerously slick.
Approach takes under 10 minutes on a clear, well-marked trail from the main parking area.
Best climbed in morning or late afternoon to avoid wall-baking sun during summer.
Water and sun protection are important, especially in the warmer months amid arid terrain.
Check bolt conditions before climbing; bolts are solid but older, so quickdraws with carabiners in good shape are advisable.
The route is protected by four well-spaced bolts leading to chained anchors. Quickdraws are essential, and no additional trad gear is needed. Sticky climbing shoes will help on slopey and fingery holds; taping your fingers is recommended if your skin is sensitive.
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