"Serpentin is a solid four-pitch sport climb on the slabs of Palissades de Charlevoix, delivering steady, technical slab climbing with a manageable alpine exit. Perfect for those looking to refine balance and multi-pitch skills amid Quebec's rugged cliffs."
Carving its way along the sheer granite slabs of Palissades de Charlevoix, Serpentin offers a focused sport climbing experience that balances calculated technicality with the steady rhythm of multi-pitch movement. This 350-foot route unfolds over four pitches, each anchored securely with solid bolts, inviting climbers to engage with smooth, slabby terrain that demands precision and calm footing more than brute force. Starting from the third pitch—shared with the neighboring Microgravité—climbers step onto a 20-meter slab rated 5.8+, requiring a confident approach to subtle holds and delicate balance. The final pitch continues upward on similar slab terrain, rated 5.9, coaxing climbers through the last bolts to a fixed anchor that signals the top of the route.
Serpentin’s character lies in its straightforward, steady rhythm: the slabs challenge you to focus on footwork and balance, gradually building to that crux near the summit pitch. The possibility to combine the last two pitches into a single long push offers options for experienced teams equipped with plenty of quickdraws. At the top, a thoughtful alpine-style exit beckons to the right, where a short class 2 scramble winds through a dense patch of forest. Here, nature steps in as a reliable partner—trees offer secure anchor points for slings, and the entourage moves synchronously through a roughly 100-meter stretch before funneling onto the trail named l'Aigle, from which a left turn leads back downhill on foot.
The approach to Serpentin benefits from Quebec's rugged northern charm: expect cool forest scents and a landscape shaped by steep cliff faces that catch the light in shifting patterns through the day. The rock’s granite surface feels cold and authoritative underhand, giving the climb a grounded clarity. The route’s modest star rating and solid bolting make it an inviting choice for climbers looking to build confidence with moderate multi-pitch slab climbing in an accessible, natural setting.
When planning your ascent, a 70-meter rope is essential to rappel safely and efficiently by returning via Microgravité’s anchors, especially if you prefer a descent by rope over the alpine exit. Given the proximity of trees on the exit scramble, simulclimbing may help ease the transition for the second climber as you thread your way through the woods. Weather can quickly shift in this region, so bring layers and keep an eye on forecasts, as wet slabs can spell trouble. Footwear with sharp edging and reliable grip will enhance your edging capabilities and protect you from slips.
Serpentin invites a practical yet immersive climbing day in one of Quebec’s less crowded crags. It’s a climb that doesn’t chase adrenaline spikes but instead rewards steady concentration, offering a clear path through the slabs and an approachable alpine finish. Whether you come to sharpen slab technique or enjoy a peaceful day in the Charlevoix cliffs, this route delivers a balanced adventure framed by solid rock and quiet woods.
Wet granite slabs on Serpentin can become dangerously slick, especially on the exposed pitches. The alpine exit includes a forested scramble where loose branches and narrow footing require careful attention. Rappelling with a 70-meter rope is safest, as downclimbing can be tricky if unsure of the route.
Bring a 70-meter rope to rappel safely via Microgravité anchors.
Wear shoes with sharp edging to handle the technical slab footwork.
Plan to simulclimb during the alpine exit scramble to keep the team moving smoothly.
Check weather carefully—wet slabs greatly increase the risk of slipping.
The route is very well bolted, requiring a dozen or more quickdraws especially if you choose to combine the last two pitches. A 70-meter rope is recommended for the rappel descent via Microgravité anchors. The alpine exit requires trad slings for tree anchors during a short class 2 scramble across forested terrain.
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