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Scramble Scrabble: A Raw Trad Challenge in Quebec’s North

Dalquier, Quebec Canada
crack
slab finish
single pitch
R rating
traditional protection
northern wilderness
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Scramble Scrabble
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Scramble Scrabble offers a direct trad climb on northern Quebec’s granite walls, blending steady crack climbing with a slab finish that challenges your balance and composure. Ideal for climbers ready to manage exposure and sharpen crack skills in a calm wilderness setting."

Scramble Scrabble: A Raw Trad Challenge in Quebec’s North

Scramble Scrabble unspools along the rugged cliffs of Quebec’s Abitibi-Temiscamingue region, a raw and straightforward trad climb that tests your gut and gear skills in equal measure. The route launches with a diagonal left-facing crack that carves its way through solid granite, inviting you into a focused and deliberate ascent. This initial section demands steady hand jams and foot placements, the rock’s grain offering reliable texture beneath your fingers. As you navigate past a prominent block, a secondary crack to the left guides your path, requiring precise movements on less obvious holds.

After the crack sections, the route eases onto a slab—a broad, sloping face where balance replaces brute force. Here, the rock’s texture demands attention: a chance to feel the stone’s subtle contours underfoot and test your nerve on exposed terrain. The final pitch remains easy in technical difficulty but carries a tangible edge; the protection thins enough to keep you alert, and the ledge below seems distant enough to reinforce your commitment. Two fixed bolt anchors mark your choice of belay spots, each offering secure but minimalist support.

At 60 feet and graded 5.6 R, Scramble Scrabble leans into a straightforward climbing style but with an undertone of seriousness. The 'R' rating signals that while the moves aren’t over-complicated, the risk level demands respect and preparedness, especially in protecting the leads. Expect natural cracks that bely simple placements, with a gear rack that needs to cover a range of cams and nuts to manage the route’s mixed crack sizes.

Setting foot in this part of northern Quebec situates you amidst quiet wilderness, far from loud crowds but rich with the sound of wind brushing the bare granite. The climb’s north-eastern exposure catches enough morning sun to warm the rock, but shade creeps in by afternoon, making early starts ideal during crisp seasons. Approach trails are rugged and sparse, threading through spruce and birch that seem to watch your passage silently.

Before you head out, pack with care: sturdy trad rack including medium and small cams, slings for extending placements, and solid footwear designed for slab friction and crack jamming. Hydrate well—the remote setting means water sources may be limited—and prepare for a short but committed outing where focus and self-reliance define success.

Scramble Scrabble isn’t about flashy moves or expansive walls. Instead, it offers a gritty encounter with raw stone and straightforward trad climbing that invites climbers to sharpen fundamental skills amid the northern wilds. Whether you’re brushing up on crack techniques or seeking a no-frills route with character, this climb rewards precision, focus, and a readiness to meet the rock on its own terms.

Climber Safety

Be aware that the bolt protection ends at the anchors only; much of the route requires precise, trustworthy gear placements. The exposure on the slab section can be intimidating, so ensure your rack is complete and your moves cautious. Seasonal weather can bring slick conditions—avoid climbing after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning sun warming the northeast-facing wall.

Bring a full trad rack plus extra slings to manage varied crack widths and reduce rope drag.

The approach trail is rugged—wear sturdy boots and allow extra time for navigation.

Stay vigilant on the slab finish; the protection is minimal and demands solid footwork.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 R
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.6, the 'R' designation signals serious runouts and sparse protection in sections, especially on the slab finish. This makes the grade feel stiffer than a typical low-5 climbing, testing climber confidence and gear placement skills. Compared to other regional climbs, it’s a raw, focused challenge rather than a polished sport-like route.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack needed with cams and nuts sized for mid to small cracks; use extended slings to reduce rope drag. Two fixed bolts on the anchors provide reliable belay points.

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Tags

crack
slab finish
single pitch
R rating
traditional protection
northern wilderness