Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingScorpion's Cave

Scorpion's Cave: A Sharp Southern Face Challenge at Chezem Cliffs

Redwood Coast, California United States
sport
sloping holds
bulge crux
shaded face
oak forest
rap rings
intermediate
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Scorpion's Cave
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Scorpion's Cave offers a precise 50-foot sport climb on the shaded south face of Chezem Cliffs. With sloping holds, a distinct crux bulge at 5.9-, and solid fixed protection, it's ideal for climbers honing their technique amid coastal forest calm."

Scorpion's Cave: A Sharp Southern Face Challenge at Chezem Cliffs

Scorpion's Cave climbs the sun-dappled south face of Chezem Cliffs, offering a compact but focused sport climb that balances approachable moves with just enough edge to engage both newcomers and steady hands. As you set off from the ground, massive oaks cast shifting shadows over the rock, their branches whispering above while sunlight breaks through in shards, highlighting the rough texture of the granite beneath your fingers. The route begins with sloping holds that ask for careful footwork and steady weight shifts, warming you into the climb’s rhythm. Midway up, you pass a weathered rock scar bearing the mark of local lore—a scorpion-shaped groove that climbs have transformed into a reliable jug, a quiet nod to the area’s character and the tenacity of its first ascendents.

The climb nearly plays it easy until you reach the final portion, where the difficulty sharpens immediately after clipping the fourth bolt. Here, a bulging crux tests core strength and body tension, demanding precise foot placement and confident pulling through 5.9 moves that reward thoughtful movement over brute force. The route finishes at a solid two-bolt anchor equipped with rap rings, providing a safe and straightforward descent. Though compact in length at just 50 feet, the climb packs a tactical punch amid serene surroundings on the Redwood Coast.

The approach wends through a short forest walk strewn with pine needles and fallen leaves; the peacefulness of the woods sets a measured pace before the vertical challenge unfolds. The granite here is steep yet textured, giving reliable friction under climbing shoes, and the shaded face offers cool climbing conditions even on brighter days. Climbing here demands moderate sport route savvy, as the protection is fixed and spaced in a comfortable pattern—four bolts along the line ensure confidence and security.

For this region's style and grade, Scorpion's Cave is a concise gem that fits neatly for climbers looking to push their 5.9 skills while enjoying the natural quiet of a less-busy coastal crag. It’s neither wildly exposed nor overly gym-like, but a fulfilling short route that connects you directly to the rock and the stories it guards. Prepare to savor the tactile engagement of each deliberate move with the faint rustle of oaks and Pacific breezes stirring around you.

Stay alert for the crux sequence where the bulge demands momentum and precision. Though the crux may feel challenging at first, it’s surmountable with focused effort and technique, making it an excellent benchmark for climbers advancing through intermediate grades. Anchors are solid and well-maintained, ensuring peace of mind when reaching the top. As always, plan your outing with hydration and moderate footwear in mind; the shaded approach keeps the rock cool and dry, but the surrounding woods can be uneven underfoot.

Ultimately, Scorpion's Cave brings together a thoughtful, short climb with the refreshing calm of California’s Redwood Coast, allowing pilots of line and balance to experience a rewarding stretch of rock that invites them back again and again.

Climber Safety

While the fixed bolts and anchors are reliable, the approach trail can be slippery with loose needles and leaves, especially after rain. Approach cautiously and mind your footing to prevent falls before the climbing even begins. The final bulge crux calls for controlled movement—avoid rushing here to reduce risk.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures in the shaded forest approach.

Check your quickdraws before heading up—the bolts are solid but spaced for precise clipping.

Watch for loose debris near the base to prevent slips on approach.

Bring at least two locking carabiners for efficient use of the rappel anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade on Scorpion's Cave is a well-measured challenge—soft enough for climbers comfortable on intermediate terrain, but with a distinct crux bulge that forces precise execution. It avoids grade inflation by demanding core tension and balance rather than raw power, making it feel just right for those stepping up to sustained 5.9 routes. Compared with other climbs nearby, this route presents a manageable but engaging test without any hidden surprises.

Gear Requirements

This route relies on 4 well-spaced bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings for easy rappel. Climbing shoes with good edging precision are recommended for the sloping holds and bulge crux.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Scorpion's Cave and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sport
sloping holds
bulge crux
shaded face
oak forest
rap rings
intermediate