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Schlabby Trad Climb on Lone Route Wall in Northern BC

Terrace, Canada
crack climbing
slab
single pitch
5.9
trad gear required
high friction
Northern BC
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Schlabby
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Schlabby’s single pitch weaves a right-leaning undercling crack crowned by a bolt-protected slab, set on the crystal-studded Lone Route Wall. A compact test of footwork and solid gear placements, this route offers a focused trad experience in Northern British Columbia’s wild Kitselas region."

Schlabby Trad Climb on Lone Route Wall in Northern BC

Schlabby unfolds along a sharp, right-leaning undercling crack etched into a towering slab on Lone Route Wall, set deep within the rugged Kitselas area near Terrace, Northern British Columbia. This single-pitch 5.9 trad route demands steady attention as you trace the crack upward, fingers seeking purchase while your feet find grip on the sparkling rock surface, alive with oversized crystals that catch the light like fragments of ice. The climb is low in length but high in sensory detail—a measured dance on rock that feels both ancient and immediate.

Starting off, your hands lock into the undercling crack, pulling upward with deliberate moves that blend power and finesse. The crack’s angle invites you to lean right, coaxing your body into efficient balance and controlled tension. Just beyond the initial section, a ledge offers a moment to catch your breath before reaching for the first bolt. This bolt is positioned well above the ledge, which means relying on traditional protection in the crack is essential for security before clipping in.

Continuing from the bolt, the route thins out onto an open slab that rewards careful footwork. Here, trust in the rock's impeccable friction as your shoes smear across a granular surface that feels polished yet reliable. The huge crystals embedded in the stone provide subtle texture changes beneath your fingers and toes, almost as if the rock itself is alive, challenging your movements and encouraging precision. Though the pitch is compact at 50 feet, the quality of movement and texture makes it feel fully rich, and the straightforward 5.9 rating holds some subtle power—it asks for focus more than gymnastic flair.

Protection is a key consideration. The two hangars with rings at the top make for an established anchor, but between the ground and the bolt, the crack demands active rack placements. Climbers should come prepared with cams sized for medium crack protection to secure this zone properly. Without well-placed gear, the lead might expose you to a longer fall, as the bolt isn't conveniently located near the start.

The approach to Lone Route Wall weaves through mixed forest and open rocky ground found across Kitselas, a region famous for its crystalline walls and quiet wilderness atmosphere. At 54.5 degrees north, the northern latitude brings cool air that often lingers even on warm days, making it advisable to start climbs early to benefit from stable conditions and less intense sun exposure on the east-facing slab.

Schlabby offers a sharp window into Northern BC climbing—accessible but commanding respect. Its short length belies the quality of stone and the thoughtful movement required. Whether you’re a local explorer or a traveling climber looking to sample the best in remote Canadian alpine faces, this climb distills technical tradition with natural beauty. With proper gear, calm focus, and an early start, you’ll find an experience as tactile as it is rewarding, grounded in the raw character of the Kitselas landscape.

Climber Safety

The first bolt lies high above the initial ledge, requiring careful gear placements in an undercling crack that can be tricky to protect. Climbers should carry an adequate rack and place pro methodically to reduce fall potential. The slab section demands attention, especially if wet or frosted—avoid climbing in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Pack medium-sized cams to secure the crack section below the first bolt.

Begin early to avoid afternoon sun on the eastern slab face.

Wear sticky-soled shoes optimized for slab friction and crystal edging.

Check weather forecasts carefully—Northern BC conditions can shift quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Schlabby strikes a balance between straightforward moves and technical sequence, making it approachable yet deliberate. The grade feels true to line, with the main challenge stemming from controlled foot placements on slab and thoughtful gear use in the undercling crack. Compared to nearby routes in the Kitselas area, this climb offers a consistent difficulty that is neither soft nor overly stiff, rewarding steady pacing and precision.

Gear Requirements

Two hangars with rings anchor the top of the route, but crucial protection must be placed in the undercling crack before reaching the bolt, which is positioned well above the initial ledge. A full rack with cams suited for medium cracks is highly recommended to protect the start safely.

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Tags

crack climbing
slab
single pitch
5.9
trad gear required
high friction
Northern BC