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Salad Fingers: Vertical Granite Challenge on McQuirks Mountain

McQuirks Mountain,Canada
granite
crack climbing
multi-pitch
technical
bolt-protected section
X Wall
Grade: 5.10c
Length: 170 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Salad Fingers
Aspect
South Facing

Salad Fingers

5.10c, Trad

McQuirks Mountain

Canada

Overview

"Salad Fingers challenges climbers with sustained, technical granite moves across two pitches at McQuirks Mountain. Its demanding cracks and precise gear placements make it a rewarding adventure for trad enthusiasts seeking a concentrated test of skill."

Salad Fingers: Vertical Granite Challenge on McQuirks Mountain

Rising sharply against the rugged skyline of McQuirks Mountain, Salad Fingers offers climbers an engaging two-pitch trad route that tests both technique and mental focus on unforgiving granite. Starting on the first pitch, climbers encounter sustained movement along sheer slabs and into a demanding dihedral known locally as the Fifty Mission. This section demands precise footwork and steady hands as the granite’s texture is unforgiving, rewarding those who maintain focus with clean, confident moves. The climb then transitions into a traverse toward a diagonal crack, which forms the second crux and challenges climbers with awkward body positioning and powerful jams. A well-placed bolt eases the psychological weight through this smooth but blank section, allowing climbers to recompose before closing in on the anchors at 170 feet.

Combining Salad Fingers with adjacent routes such as Emerald City or the first pitch of Up Yours creates a longer, three-pitch adventure full of authentic granite climbing. The rock is bullet hard, offering solid friction but demanding clutch gear placements, which makes protection as much a mental game as physical. Expect to place small nuts and cams up to three inches, doubling up on smaller pieces to stay secure through the most intense sections.

The approach to Salad Fingers is straightforward but requires attention through the rugged terrain of X Wall. The alpine forest around McQuirks Mountain presses in close, with the sharp pine needles underfoot and brisk breezes that dare you onward. While the route doesn't boast overwhelming exposure, its technical demands and high-quality rock attract climbers looking for focused trad climbing with a bit of a challenge.

The area benefits from a northern exposure, offering cooler climbing conditions in the afternoon and protection from direct sun in warmer months. Descending is manageable via a series of two rappels from the anchor stations, but climbers should be prepared for precise rope management and double-checking anchor security before committing.

This route, rated 5.10c, packs a punch for climbers looking to push their trad skills on solid granite with thoughtful protection. Particularly for those eager to build endurance and master crack climbing techniques, Salad Fingers provides an immersive experience that tests footing, gear placement, and mental stamina. If you’re targeting McQuirks Mountain, this climb is a must-add to your itinerary—rewarding those who respect its demands with pure vertical satisfaction against the vast Canadian wilderness.

Climber Safety

While the rock quality is solid, protection can be thin in spots, especially through the traverse section. Climbers should prepare for limited pro placements and avoid relying solely on the single bolt there. Additionally, the descent requires two rappels with careful attention to anchor integrity and rope friction against granite edges—double-check all knots and gear before committing.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10c
TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length170 feet

Local Tips

Keep your small cams and nuts handy; tight placements protect the crux moves.

Start early mornings to avoid afternoon winds that can chill the face.

Combine this route with Emerald City or Up Yours for an extended multi-pitch day.

Double-check your rappel anchors before descending; rope management is critical.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10c, Salad Fingers feels true to grade with two distinctive cruxes that demand precision and strength. The first pitch tests sustained crack and face climbing on near-vertical, hard granite, while the diagonal crack on the second pitch presents a challenging crux that can feel pumpy. Compared to nearby routes like Emerald City, Salad Fingers offers a tighter focus on crack technique rather than sustained face climbing, making it slightly stiffer for climbers still honing specialized trad skills.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack up to 3 inches covers the protection needs, with emphasis on placing small cams and nuts for the hardest sections. Doubling up on smaller gear is advised, particularly through the traverse toward the diagonal crack where protection opportunities tighten. One bolt assists in anchoring through a blank section, easing the mental load without compromising the trad experience.

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Tags

granite
crack climbing
multi-pitch
technical
bolt-protected section
X Wall