HomeClimbingSaggy Jugs and Childbearing Clips

Saggy Jugs and Childbearing Clips at Murrin Park

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
sport climbing
side pulls
mossy slab
single pitch
fall zone caution
stick clip recommended
Length: 65 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Saggy Jugs and Childbearing Clips
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This single-pitch sport climb at Murrin Park demands commitment right from the first moves, with a crux that challenges your technique on side pulls and an upper slab cloaked in moss. A perfect test for seasoned climbers honing their lead skills amid Squamish’s rugged natural beauty."

Saggy Jugs and Childbearing Clips at Murrin Park

Saggy Jugs and Childbearing Clips presents a focused dash of sport climbing challenge along the moss-speckled cliffs of Murrin Park, a raw playground just outside the bustling core of Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch route demands both tactical precision and boldness from the outset, with a low crux threading through the first two bolts that tests your ability to read subtle body positioning and trust marginal holds. The initial sequence calls for commitment—engage the side pulls on the right to climb past the shallow fall zone, where hesitation could mean an awkward drop. A stick clip is more than a convenience here; it’s a safety tool, given the fall potential and rock conditions below. Beyond this challenge, the climbing eases significantly as you transition to a slab that leans against the forested backdrop, its surface cloaked in moss and lending a slick, textured obstacle that rewards confident footwork.

Murrin Park itself is a rugged wildspace, offering an accessible but genuine climbing experience for those prepared to navigate the approachable yet varied terrain. Access is straightforward, with well-marked trails carrying you through the dense woods before the rock face comes into view. Expect about a 15-minute hike from the parking area, where the sounds of the nearby river mix with birdsong and the whisper of trees swaying in coastal winds. Early mornings or late afternoons provide the best light and temperature balance; the wall faces eastward, catching the warmth of the rising sun but preserving shaded coolness as the day progresses.

This route’s protective setup of eight bolts provides a solid anchor chain, though placements must be managed with care due to the moss and occasional crumbly patches. Climbers should bring a stick clip to avoid unsafe falls onto an uneven landing zone, especially during the crux sequence. Beyond the crux, trust your feet on the slab—its slipperiness demands clean, precise movements and sturdy climbing shoes with soft, responsive rubber.

For those drawn to Squamish’s diverse climbing offerings, Saggy Jugs and Childbearing Clips offers a tight, intense encounter that combines technical sport climbing with a slice of wilderness atmosphere. It’s perfect for climbers working through the 5.10 range who want to sharpen their lead skills and experience a climb that blends physical moves with mental strategy.

Prepare for variable conditions; wet moss after rain can slow progress, and the fall zone remains a concern. Keep hydration close, wear shoes with strong edging ability, and plan your day to avoid peak mid-afternoon heat or damp evenings. Murrin Park’s setting rewards focus, and with careful preparation, this route leaves you ready to explore further into the Squamish climbing ecosystem, where each climb tells a story of rock, effort, and engagement with the wild.

Climber Safety

Falling before the second bolt risks landing on uneven, mossy ground—use a stick clip to minimize this hazard. Conditions can become slick after rain, so take extra caution on the upper slab and wear shoes with strong edging.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip for the first bolt to avoid risky falling onto uneven ground.

Approach via the well-maintained trail from Murrin Park parking area—expect 15 minutes on foot.

Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon takes advantage of the east-facing wall’s sun and shade.

Be prepared for slippery moss on the upper slab, especially after rain—stick to clean footwork.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10d, this climb delivers a focused crux low on the route that demands commitment and technique, especially on side pulls against limited rest. After the crux, the slab eases off but requires confident foot placement on moss-covered rock, slightly softening the overall difficulty. Compared to other Squamish routes, this climb feels technical with a brief but intense challenge rather than sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a stick clip to secure your first bolt safely due to a tricky low crux and limited fall zone. Eight bolts protect the route, with placements spaced to reward steady, precise climbing.

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Tags

sport climbing
side pulls
mossy slab
single pitch
fall zone caution
stick clip recommended