HomeClimbingRuta de Amor

Ruta de Amor: A Balanced Trad and Sport Climb in Tulancingo

Tulancingo, Hidalgo Mexico
crack climbing
bolted
single pitch
featured face
mixed protection
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ruta de Amor
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ruta de Amor blends the steady challenges of trad climbing with the security of bolted sport sections. This engaging 65-foot pitch near Tulancingo features solid jams and a featured face, perfect for climbers seeking variety and a chance to hone their gear placement skills."

Ruta de Amor: A Balanced Trad and Sport Climb in Tulancingo

Set against the rugged cliff faces just outside Tulancingo, Ruta de Amor offers a compelling blend of trad and sport climbing that challenges both technique and route-finding. This 65-foot pitch demands attention from the first move, where a somewhat elevated first bolt stands guard, encouraging climbers to engage their crack climbing skills early. The route opens with solid hand and fist jams in a clean crack, providing excellent purchase before transitioning to a heavily featured face that invites creativity in movement. Climbers can choose to follow the crack or explore the plentiful holds scattered across the rock, making the climb as mental as it is physical. The finish maneuvers left onto a slightly angled face, testing balance and careful footwork with a steady, confident approach.

The rock feels alive here—gritty and textured, offering a tactile connection that strengthens your grip as you ascend. Sunlight casts shifting shadows along the face, highlighting the subtle contours of finger pockets and ledges, while a gentle breeze carries the scent of dry earth and pine from below. This is a route for those who appreciate versatility: the bolted sections provide reassurance, but respecting your gear placements remains key, as the protection calls for solid trad skills. An anchored top ring set with a chain and bolt makes the descent secure, doubling as a final moment to take in sweeping views of Hidalgo's rugged hills.

Planning a climb here? Start early to beat the midday sun, which can intensify the wall’s heat. Footwear with sticky rubber enhances friction on the face's textured holds, while a light rack of cams and nuts complements the fixed bolts for a seamless protection strategy. Hydration is crucial, especially when the air feels dry and the approach uphill. Approaching the cliff involves negotiating a modest trail with some loose scree, requiring sturdy boots and steady footing. The approach rewards with growing anticipation, framed by the sounds of distant birds and the occasional rustle of wind through sparse vegetation.

Ruta de Amor strikes a harmonious balance between accessible sport climbing and the rewarding complexity of trad moves. Whether you’re carving jams or testing balance on face holds, this climb offers an opportunity to sharpen technique amid a deeply engaging setting. Embrace the route’s demands, and you’ll leave with a satisfying taste of what Hidalgo’s vertical playground has to offer.

Climber Safety

Watch your placements in the crack sections where rock quality can vary slightly. The initial bolt sits higher than usual, increasing the importance of careful clipping and body positioning. Loose scree on the approach can be slippery, so take deliberate steps on the trail.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Begin your climb early to avoid the intense midday sun warming the wall.

Bring sticky rubber climbing shoes for the face holds and controlled footwork.

Carry a versatile rack of cams and nuts to complement the bolted protection.

Wear sturdy boots for the approach trail, as loose scree and rocky ground require careful footing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Ruta de Amor offers a rating that feels approachable yet engaging. The difficulty is balanced; the elevated first bolt demands commitment, and the finger jams require solid technique. Compared to other routes in the area, it delivers a satisfying challenge without stepping into more strenuous grades, making it a great introduction to mixed trad and sport climbing nearby.

Gear Requirements

The route is bolted but benefits from having a rack of cams and nuts for added protection. Expect to place solid gear in the crack sections to supplement the bolts. The top anchor is a ring attached to both a chain and a bolt, offering a secure belay and rappel point.

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Tags

crack climbing
bolted
single pitch
featured face
mixed protection