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Rumble in the Jungle

Nelson, British Columbia Canada
traditional crack
lichen
roof bypass
granite
multi-pitch
alpine exposure
Length: 700 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Rumble in the Jungle
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rumble in the Jungle offers a five-pitch alpine trad climb with a consistent blend of moderate and technical granite pitches. This route challenges climbers with a crucial lichen-covered crux and a memorable roof bypass, set against the wild backdrop of Mount Gimli."

Rumble in the Jungle

Rumble in the Jungle unfurls across Mount Gimli’s rugged granite, inviting climbers into a five-pitch alpine trad experience that demands both precision and presence. This route stands out in the Valhalla Mountains for its shifting character—starting with approachable moderate cracks that ease you into the climb, the route quickly escalates to sustained technical sequences on steep stone, where every hold counts. The approach slices through dense forest undergrowth that occasionally presses in, setting a wild tone as you push closer to the base. The mountain’s granite shifts texture and angle as you ascend; moss and lichen make a guest appearance in the route’s last steep stretch, requiring careful footwork and heightened attention.

Pitch one offers a solid 5.6 warm-up, ideal for settling nerves and reading the rock. The second pitch edges into 5.8 territory, blending crunchy hand jams with occasional face moves, while pitch three unleashes a sustained 5.10a section where balance and finger strength become your best allies. The crux revolves around pitch four’s 5.10b/c move. Here the granite steepens, and a patch of lichen commands respect, making protection feel slightly more committing and encouraging a confident yet patient approach. The route wraps up with a fifth pitch that threads a rightward bypass around a prominent roof, calming the nerves with a 5.7 finish and offering a welcome mental reset before the descent.

Protection calls for a well-rounded rack. Nuts and microcams up to a BD #3 will give you solid anchors and peace of mind, though careful gear placements become paramount on the upper pitches, where pro can be sparse or tricky amid textured granite and lichen. The alpine setting commands a full day’s commitment, with crisp mountain air and views that open up as you climb higher, revealing the impressive breadth of the Kootenays West. Be ready for shifting weather; the rock can feel slick in lingering moisture, especially near the lichen patches.

Approaching Rumble in the Jungle leads through forested trails peppered with exposed roots and rocky outcrops, demanding sturdy boots and a keen eye for footing. The GPS coordinates point to a launch near 49.7655 latitude and -117.6478 longitude, where a faint but steady trail threads through the dense alpine forest for roughly 45 minutes. Timing your ascent mid-morning can help you avoid early chill and allows enough daylight for a safe descent.

The descent is straightforward yet unrelenting—expect to downclimb exposed ledges and scramble over loose rock. Rappelling is possible but requires extra gear and caution; the safest route remains the walk-down, following the marked scramble path west. Pay attention to loose scree and maintain steady footing, especially on tired legs.

This climb strikes a satisfying balance between technical challenge and wilderness immersion. It beckons to climbers comfortable managing varied terrain and gear, craving an alpine adventure where gritty rock meets wild landscapes. Whether you’re stepping up from sport routes or pushing your trad limits, Rumble in the Jungle delivers a vivid encounter with nature that’s as grounded in practical climbing as it is in the raw thrill of the mountains.

Climber Safety

Careful foot placements are crucial on the lichen-covered section toward the top of pitch four; the rock can feel slippery and protection placements are less secure here. The descent involves exposed downclimbing over loose scree—take your time and watch for unstable footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length700 feet

Local Tips

Start your approach early to ensure ample daylight for the descent.

Wear boots with good traction to tackle forest roots and damp granite.

Bring a rack focused on smaller cams and nuts; protection can be thin on upper pitches.

Mid-morning ascents help avoid lingering moisture and slippery rock near lichen patches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10b/c rating on pitch four is a solid step up in difficulty, made trickier by lichen on steep rock which demands precise footwork and nervous control. While most pitches feel straightforward for their grade, the overall flow is sustained, making Rumble in the Jungle a good test of endurance and technique compared to other alpine routes nearby.

Gear Requirements

A rack featuring nuts and microcams ranging up to BD #3 is essential for protecting the varied cracks and steeper sections, especially around the lichen-covered crux on pitch four.

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Tags

traditional crack
lichen
roof bypass
granite
multi-pitch
alpine exposure