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Royal Flash: A Classic Trad Route on The Hex Wall

Welsford, Canada
splitter crack
ledge rest
traditional protection
single pitch
crack climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Royal Flash
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Royal Flash offers a quintessential trad climbing experience on New Brunswick’s Hex Wall, combining splitter cracks with a well-placed ledge rest. Its moderate 5.9 rating makes it an accessible challenge featuring clean protection and tactile rock movement."

Royal Flash: A Classic Trad Route on The Hex Wall

Royal Flash commands attention with its clean lines and straightforward crack systems, perfectly suited for trad climbers seeking a solid 5.9 challenge. Starting on sharply defined splitter corner cracks, the route immediately invites you to engage with the rock’s texture and rhythm. As you climb, a broad ledge offers a moment to pause, recalibrate, and take in the surroundings—a chance to feel the pulse of The Hex Wall before committing to the final push. Beyond the ledge, vertical cracks and rails guide your hands and feet upward, demanding precise footwork and thoughtful gear placements.

Located in the rugged landscapes of Eagle Rock near Welsford, New Brunswick, Royal Flash sits within a climbing area known for its accessible yet rewarding lines. The rock here is solid, offering clean protection opportunities where a range of cams come into play. A #3 cam is particularly useful, ensuring secure anchors in wider sections.

The climb’s single pitch keeps it approachable but doesn’t skimp on quality. The exposure unfolds gradually, with the crack systems providing a tactile journey—rough edges that test your grip, rail-like features that challenge your balance. The Hex Wall’s aspect catches morning sun, which warms the rock surface after cool nights, making early starts ideal for comfortable climbing conditions. The route’s moderate length and technical moves make it an excellent choice for climbers refining their trad skills or hunting for a satisfying line without deep commitment.

Approaching Royal Flash, a short yet rugged trail leads you close to the base amidst mixed forest and rocky outcrops. The path is straightforward but can be slick after rain, so sturdy footwear is a must. The surrounding forest breathes quietly, broken occasionally by bird calls, grounding you in this natural amphitheater. After the climb, climbers typically descend by walking off around the cliff’s edge, a simple end that keeps the focus on the line rather than complicated exits.

Gear up with a solid rack emphasizing mid-sized cams, and be ready to place protection frequently along the crack systems. This route rewards careful gear placement and attention to body positioning. While the grade sits at 5.9, the crux feels true to its rating—technical, requiring finesse rather than brute strength, and perfectly suited for climbers eager to link moves fluidly.

Royal Flash stands as a noteworthy gateway to The Hex Wall’s trad offerings. The combination of consistent rock quality, manageable length, and approachable yet committing moves makes it a valuable stop on any regional climbing itinerary. Whether you're polishing trad techniques or stepping into trad for the first time, this climb provides a balanced taste of challenge and adventure in New Brunswick's climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is generally solid, but always test gear placements carefully along the vertical cracks. The ledge midpoint provides a stable rest but watch for loose debris near edges. Weather can affect the approach trail, so tread carefully when wet.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to catch morning sun warming the rock for optimal grip.

Wear sturdy shoes with good traction; approach trail can become slippery after rain.

Bring a full rack of cams focusing on medium sizes to protect all crack widths.

Plan for a simple walk-off descent; no rappelling required.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Royal Flash feels honest to the route’s moves—technical without overbearing difficulty. The crux demands precise hand jams and balance on vertical rails, offering a solid challenge that doesn't overextend. Compared to other local climbs, it is accessible yet provides enough bite to satisfy those stepping up into more sustained trad climbing.

Gear Requirements

This route requires a traditional rack with emphasis on a variety of cams, particularly a #3 cam to handle wider crack sections effectively.

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Tags

splitter crack
ledge rest
traditional protection
single pitch
crack climbing