"An accessible, one-pitch trad route on North Wall with a clean crack system and solid protection. Route C offers a straightforward climb that introduces crack technique while delivering impressive views over Gatineau Park’s rugged terrain."
Route C on North Wall presents a straightforward yet satisfying trad climb that rewards steady hands and thoughtful gear placements. This single-pitch ascent begins in a snug corner, where the crack narrows and stretches upward, inviting climbers into an intimate zone of sustained friction and delicate sequences. The route’s crack system moves into a second corner near the cliff’s summit, where confident feet meet tested fingers on solid rock. Despite its modest 5.5 rating, Route C demands attention to detail—thin gear placements require embracing the rhythm of the crack and making precision moves to maintain balance and progression. The rock carries a tactile roughness, its texture providing reliable holds but asking climbers to stay engaged throughout every move. The cliff rises sharply from the granite walls of Gatineau Park, offering clear views over the forested basin below and the distant ridges beyond. The bolted anchor at the top offers safe and convenient security, so you can enjoy the brief moment of respite after the climb while taking in the quiet hum of the surrounding woods. Route C is an ideal introduction to the North Wall’s trad offerings, combining approachable difficulty with enough technical nuance to keep your focus sharp. For those familiar with Gatineau Park, this climb fits neatly alongside other accessible routes, making it a perfect early-season outing or a solid warm-up before tackling lengthier routes in the area. Expect a brief approach along well-marked trails, a comfortable single-pitch climb on weathered granite, and a descent that’s straightforward and well established. Equipment-wise, a standard trad rack equipped with smaller cams and nuts will cover your protection needs here, paired with sturdy footwear for surefooted edging on the crack and corners. Conditions improve early in the day with dry rock and little shade, so morning ascents are best to avoid afternoon heat or damp patches. Whether you’re stepping onto Route C to sharpen crack climbing skills or simply looking for a reliable afternoon adventure, the climb’s balance of exposure, solid protection, and scenic surroundings delivers a reliably enjoyable experience.
While the fixed anchor is reliable, take care on the thin crack placements—hesitation can lead to insecure gear. The granite is generally sound, but wet conditions after rain will make holds slippery; avoid climbing if the rock is damp.
Start early to benefit from morning shade and dry rock.
Bring smaller cam sizes to protect thin crack sections effectively.
Wear shoes with good edging capability for the crack and corners.
Check recent weather as afternoon humidity may cause slippery holds.
A standard trad rack with small to medium cams and nuts covers the placements on this route. Fixed bolts secure the anchor at the top, simplifying the belay setup.
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