"Rockstar offers a technical single-pitch trad climb that tests finger strength and balance on an engaging open book crack system. Set on the granite walls of Cochrane Lane Cliffs, it’s the perfect challenge for climbers looking to refine their 5.9 trad skills amid accessible New Brunswick wilderness."
Rockstar offers a concise but technically engaging trad climb that demands both precision and a steady approach. Located within the Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick, this 100-foot single pitch is a rewarding climb that balances awkward body positions with clean, exposed moves. The start demands careful footwork as you negotiate a short corner before moving onto a left-leaning ramp perched just three meters off the ground. This section introduces the rhythm of the route, pushing climbers into a bulge that tests core strength and balance. Beyond this bulge, the climb opens into a vertical crack lying within a classic open book formation, where thin moves challenge finger strength and technique.
As you ascend, the arete appears, marked by diagonal cracks and a piton that hints at the route's traditional spirit. The diagonal cracks lead left to a modest ledge, providing a brief respite. From here, the path veers right into a short chimney, guarded by a small overhang that requires thoughtful positioning to surmount. The final moves step back left onto a cleaner wall leading to the anchor, a satisfying finish to a climb that melds technicality with natural flow.
The rock surfaces are primarily sound with granite textures offering solid friction, though some sections demand precise gear placements to ensure safety. A standard rack with cams up to a #3 Camalot covers the protection needs, with nuts and smaller cams rounding out the rack. The setting on Cochrane Lane Cliffs provides an open feel with distant views of New Brunswick's forests stretching below, lending a sense of spaciousness without the isolation of more remote climbs.
Approach is straightforward, with well-marked trails cutting through mixed forest terrain, taking roughly 20 minutes from the trailhead. The area is easily accessible from Welsford, making it an ideal day trip for climbers looking to push their 5.9 skills without committing to a full alpine expedition. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon can take advantage of shade along the rock face, especially during warm summer months.
In preparation, layered clothing and sturdy approach shoes will serve well as the trail blends roots and rocky patches. Hydration is essential—while the climb is short, carry enough water to stay refreshed on the approach and descent. Familiarity with placing protection in traditional cracks will smooth your ascent, as some placements require careful judgment in the thinner cracks and chimney.
Rockstar stands as a small but memorable test-piece of classic trad climbing in the heart of New Brunswick. It’s an approachable route for intermediate climbers ready to refine technique on nuanced features, all while grounded in the raw, accessible beauty of Cochrane Lane Cliffs.
While the rock is generally solid, gear placements on the bulge and diagonal cracks require deliberate judgment. The small overhang guarding the short chimney demands cautious moves—avoid rushing to maintain secure holds. Watch conditions closely as wet or mossy rock can increase slip risk.
Start early to catch shaded rock and avoid midday heat.
Carry a rack of cams up to #3 Camalot for reliable protection.
Wear approach shoes with good grip; trails have some rocky sections.
Check weather forecasts—wet rock increases difficulty on the bulge and chimney.
A standard trad rack including cams up to #3 Camalot covers protection needs. Smaller cams and nuts complement placements in thin cracks and the chimney section. No fixed gear except for one piton along the arete. Careful gear placement on the bulge and diagonal cracks is advised.
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