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Right Side at Black Widow Slab: A Solid Boulder Canyon Trad Adventure

Boulder, Colorado United States
dihedral
multi-pitch
trad gear
easy approach
Boulder Canyon
granite
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Right Side
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Right Side upholds Boulder Canyon’s tradition of solid, no-nonsense trad climbing. Featuring a memorable dihedral crux and a relaxed upper section, this three-pitch route offers ample opportunities for gear placements and an enjoyable multi-pitch experience."

Right Side at Black Widow Slab: A Solid Boulder Canyon Trad Adventure

Black Widow Slab offers an unpretentious climb loaded with hands-on movement and classic Boulder Canyon character. The route known as Right Side carves a clear dihedral that invites a focused trad experience away from the more crowded sport lines nearby. The initial 20 feet demand attention, standing out as the route’s crux where precise footwork and confident hand jams set the tone. Beyond this, the angle slackens, easing into less technical terrain that rewards steady leadership rather than power moves.

This three-pitch climb balances straightforward trad climbing with just enough challenge to engage climbers looking to push their skills on 5.9 terrain. The rock itself holds reliable friction throughout, with occasional rough patches that remind you of Boulder’s tough granite personality. Protection is mostly straightforward, with solid placements available in the dihedral, although subtle cracks encourage careful gear selection—small cams and nuts in particular. The approach winds through familiar Boulder Canyon trails, with a short but sometimes loose walk-in that can be comfortably managed in under 20 minutes.

Seasonally, this climb breathes best in spring and fall when Boulder’s sun-steeped granite can become too hot or slick from summer moisture. Early mornings offer cool shade, with the southern-facing wall warming as the day progresses, perfect for a climb that balances comfort and pace. For those wanting to extend their adventure, it’s possible to link Right Side with the adjacent Bands of Gold sport route, mapping a hybrid climb that skips the 11d crux of Bands and finishes out with technical 5.10 moves bolstered by fixed bolts.

Aside from the climbing, the area delivers impressive views of the Front Range foothills, where wind and light play over pine stands and open granite faces. The atmosphere remains quietly charged, as though the rocks themselves dare you to test your mettle early in the day before office hours begin. Gear up with a standard trad rack including small to medium cams, plenty of nuts, and a handful of quickdraws if you choose the hybrid variation. Don’t forget sturdy footwear with good edging, as slab and dihedral transitions reward precise foot placement.

Downclimbing back to the base can be achieved by careful scrambling and short rappels; however, climbers should approach the descent with caution, as loose blocks and uneven footing demand attention. Staying hydrated is key, especially during warmer months, and early start times help beat both crowds and heat.

Right Side stands as a reliable Boulder Canyon trad climb that invites climbers craving an experience combining classic crack climbing with the option to stretch into bolt-protected terrain nearby. Its straightforward rating belies pockets of subtle challenge, all wrapped in the raw scenic vibe that makes Boulder’s granite a perennial favorite.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the top and a somewhat exposed descent call for careful movement on the way down. Inspect gear placements thoroughly and avoid rushing, especially on the slabby sections where footing can be trusted only with precision.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the sun-exposed slabs.

Wear shoes with solid edging for confident footing on the slab sections.

Carry a standard trad rack including small to medium cams and plenty of nuts.

Be cautious during descent as loose rocks and uneven terrain can pose hazards.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9-, this route offers a moderate challenge with a distinct crux in the initial 20 feet. The grade feels true to Boulder’s style—approachable yet requiring solid technique. The upper pitches relax in difficulty, making it a balanced climb for climbers stepping up to multi-pitch trad routes.

Gear Requirements

Protection relies on small cams and nuts placed carefully in the dihedral. Minimal fixed gear is available, except when linking to the nearby Bands of Gold where bolts are clipped to avoid harder climbing.

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Tags

dihedral
multi-pitch
trad gear
easy approach
Boulder Canyon
granite