"A concise, focused 35-foot sport climb on Roachclip Rocks’ right face, this 5.9 route combines a punching crux at the first bolt with the option to use the adjacent arete for flow and variety. Perfect for climbers seeking a quick desert ascent with reliable protection."
On the eastern face of Roachclip Rocks within California's High Desert, an inviting sport climb offers a compact yet lively challenge for those eyeing a sharp 5.9 ascent. This single-pitch route, stretching 35 feet, traces a line of three bolts up the right side of the face, where the rock’s texture is raw and immediate. Beginning with a finger-locking move at the first bolt — the climb’s unmistakable crux — it demands steady footwork and a confident reach. Climbers often favor the adjacent right-hand arete, where subtle holds push the sequence’s flow, though it’s just as feasible to tackle the pitch without embracing the edge. The climb balances a direct approach with enough variation to keep each attempt fresh.
Surrounded by the sparse, sun-baked environment of the High Desert, the wall’s surface wears the quiet heat of the region, warming quickly but offering just enough shadow as morning progresses. The area’s openness ensures a broad view of the clear blue skies typical of this part of California, and the climb’s proximity to the boulders means the atmosphere hums with the low murmur of the desert wind shaping stone and sand alike.
Protection is straightforward: three well-spaced bolts guide you upward to a secure bolted anchor, simplifying gear decisions and allowing climbers to focus on movement and balance. Expect solid rock, yet maintain attentive foot placement on slightly rough holds, which reward precision. While the climb’s brief length might appeal to newcomers sharpening their sport climb technique, its punchy crux offers enough challenge to engage more experienced climbers seeking a quick, rewarding send.
Accessing Roachclip Rocks is a straightforward affair, making it an ideal stop for those exploring the High Desert climbing areas near Luna Boulders. The climb sits within an open, rocky terrain characteristic of the zone — expect dusty paths and heat-reflecting rock. Morning climbs are recommended to beat the afternoon sun, which can intensify on the exposed face. Footwear with good edging capability is key here, as the route’s transition through the crux requires precise weight shifts.
In all, the Right Side Arete at Roachclip Rocks offers a crisp, compact challenge embedded in a quietly compelling desert setting. Its blend of direct sport climbing and subtle arete options invites climbers to engage their technique without an overwhelming commitment, perfect for those carving out a desert-day adventure with solid rock and clear lines.
Though the route's short, the desert environment requires attention to sun exposure and hydration. The approach terrain is loose and rocky, so watch footing. While bolts are solid, stay mindful of rope drag near the arete to prevent unexpected resistance during clipping.
Start early to avoid intense afternoon heat on the exposed face.
Use shoes with precise edging for the crux at the first bolt.
Note that the route can be climbed with or without the arete—try both for variety.
Double-check bolt integrity but expect well-maintained hardware.
Three fixed bolts provide solid protection up the route, ending at a bolted anchor. No additional gear needed. Focus on clipping early and managing rope drag through the arete variation.
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