"Right of the Roof in Riverside Quarry offers a vibrant selection of sport climbs ranging from 5.10d to 5.13c. Situated between two popular sectors, this area rewards climbers with sharp technical routes under the Inland Empire sun, perfect for those seeking varied lengths and consistent quality."
Right of the Roof stands as a vivid statement of technical sport climbing within the vibrant Riverside Quarry area, California. This section, framed by the Roof Area on its left and the Torture Machine sector on its right, offers climbers a compelling mix of routes stretching from solid 5.10d up through the challenging 5.13c grades. The climbs vary in length from sharp, intense seven-bolt sequences to test endurance on steeper walls extending up to 19 bolts.
The rock feels formidable under your fingers—weathered but holds plenty of positive edges and pockets, demanding precise footwork and commitment. The elevation here is around 1,105 feet, positioning the wall in a climate that offers year-round potential with prime seasons clustered in the cooler, less rainy months. Expect a dry desert-adjacent environment punctuated by the inland sun, so timing your day by starting early or late afternoon can avoid baking heat.
Getting to Right of the Roof is straightforward but rewarding—the trail approaches directly below the crag near Tangerine Dream, where solid footing leads you close to the routes. Alternately, a traverse along the base connects this area with neighboring sectors, offering an opportunity for warm-up climbs or a leisurely cooldown between sends. The approach is well-maintained and requires roughly 10 to 15 minutes from the main quarry parking, allowing climbers quick access without sacrificing the feeling of stepping into a purposeful climbing zone.
Among the classic climbs here, automatic attention goes to names like Atlas (5.11b), Automatic Static (5.11b), Salubrious (5.11c), and Survival of the Fittest (5.12b). Each stands out for their clean lines and engaging sequences. For those pushing into the upper grades, Natural Selection (5.12c), La Bella Donna (5.12d), and the demanding Consumption and Weight of the World, both at 5.13c, offer serious challenges that reward well-prepared climbers with sustained technical climbing and memorable moves.
The wall’s sun-facing orientation means afternoon shade is sparse, so fall and winter months provide the best climbing conditions when temperatures soften. Protection here is sport-climb standard: reliable bolts, and a well-equipped rack geared toward quickdraws. The rock’s quality is consistent, but it’s wise to remain vigilant for any loose sections near the top of longer routes.
Descent is usually done via walk-off or downclimb along established trails back to the parking area. The terrain is manageable but paying attention to footing is necessary, especially after rain or early morning dew.
Right of the Roof’s appeal lies in its approachable technical challenges paired with the variety of route lengths and grades, making it a magnet for a broad range of sport climbers. Whether you crave sprint-like sharp routes or longer endurance tests, this portion of Riverside Quarry delivers. Planning a day here means layering for the sun, ensuring ample water, and carving out enough time to explore climbs that match your appetite for technical movement and athletic poise in California’s Inland Empire.
While bolts are dependable, some of the longer routes approach 19 bolts and require endurance. Be cautious on loose rock sections near topouts, and stay alert on the descent trail, which can be slippery after rain.
Start climbs early to beat the strong Inland Empire sun in the afternoon.
Use quickdraws suited for sport routes; no trad gear necessary here.
Access the area via the well-marked trail near Tangerine Dream for easiest approach.
Check weather conditions in cooler months for optimal climbing dryness and comfort.
Sport climbing routes bolted with between 7 to 19 bolts, suitable for quickdraw setups. Approach trail leads directly below the crag near Tangerine Dream.
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