HomeClimbingRight Crack

Right Crack: A Classic 5.9 Hand Jam in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
hand crack
trad
single pitch
desert granite
friendly 5.9
joshua tree
wide crack
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Right Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Right Crack offers a memorable 5.9 hand jam experience in Joshua Tree’s Jumbo Rock Area, combining a challenging wide start with a comfortable rest spot and smooth finish. Ideal for honing crack skills or filling time before busier climbs, this single-pitch route balances technique and scenic desert climbing."

Right Crack: A Classic 5.9 Hand Jam in Joshua Tree

Right Crack stands out as an approachable yet rewarding hand crack climb in the heart of Joshua Tree National Park’s Jumbo Rock Area. This single-pitch 70-foot route offers a hands-on experience with classic desert granite, providing a solid challenge for climbers aiming to refine crack technique or seeking a quality warm-up while waiting to tackle busier routes nearby.

From the base, the climb begins with a demanding wide hand crack that tests your ability to jam and maneuver through an inviting but physical section. The initial moves require commitment and precise footwork to overcome the widest part, often presenting the most memorable hurdle on this modestly rated climb. As you move up, you encounter a welcome rest spot about two-thirds of the way where the rock leans back gently, offering a moment to shake out and appreciate the sun-dappled surroundings. Here, the crack begins to open up, transitioning from its steeper, contorted start to a more relaxed and wider chimney style, making the top half flow smoother and less strenuous.

The rock in this area carries the coarse texture typical of Joshua Tree, lending excellent friction underfoot and reassuring holds for hands. Ambient sounds of desert wildlife and occasional wind gusts pepper the quiet, punctuating the climb with natural cadence.

Protection on Right Crack requires a standard rack of cams from smaller .75-inch pieces doubling up through to #3 Camalots. Larger placements become feasible after the rest point for those wishing to run out anchors more confidently, but the terrain is forgiving overall. A thoughtful touch is bringing a long sling to wrap around the prominent boulder at the summit for a secure anchor setup. This attention to gear translates to safer, smoother climbing and allows you to focus fully on technique.

Right Crack’s location within Joshua Tree’s Jumbo Rock Area means the approach is straightforward though climbs in this zone draw some regular traffic. The trail meanders through low scrub and scattered boulders under open skies, with minimal elevation gain making it an accessible stop on any day of desert climbing. Morning and late afternoon sessions are ideal to avoid midday heat, as the climb’s northwest-facing wall offers partial shade but can warm quickly under the desert sun.

Whether you’re stepping onto Right Crack as a confidence-building project or layering it between harder climbs like Gem or Colorado Crack, this route offers a blend of challenge and playfulness. It invites climbers to reconnect with basic crack skills while soaking in the distinct atmosphere of one of California’s most iconic climbing destinations. For those interested in integrating this climb into a full day of Joshua Tree adventure, pack extra water, steady shoes designed for smearing on granite, and a patient mindset—this crack rewards persistence and technique over raw power.

In essence, Right Crack is a practical, memorable line that exemplifies the desert climbing ethos: rugged, textured rock with honest moves and a quiet sense of accomplishment at the top. It’s a route that embraces both the thrill of movement and the serenity of the high desert, perfectly complementing any climber’s day at Jumbo Rock.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the wider sections at the start, as secure hand jams require precise placements and good footwork. The granite is coarse but can be abrasive on skin, so tape up if needed. Also, the anchor boulder at the top should be slung carefully to ensure stability.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late to avoid desert heat; morning and late afternoon offer best temperatures.

Use sticky rubber shoes for better friction on rough granite.

Bring plenty of water; desert exposure can quickly dehydrate.

Wrap a long sling around the summit boulder to build a secure anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels approachable but don’t underestimate the wide crack’s initial crux, which demands solid jamming technique. The grade is on the softer side once past the resting ledge, making it well-suited for climbers sharpening crack skills without the pump of steeper routes nearby like Gem or Colorado Crack.

Gear Requirements

Gear up with one set of .75 cams and double sets from #1 to #3 Camalots. Larger cams can be placed above the rest but the terrain softens there. Don’t forget a long sling to create a solid anchor around the top boulder.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
single pitch
desert granite
friendly 5.9
joshua tree
wide crack