HomeClimbingRide A Cock Horse

Ride A Cock Horse: A Friendly Trad Climb at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Welsford, Canada
chimney start
bolted anchor
tree anchor
beginner trad
single pitch
tricky mantle
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ride A Cock Horse
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ride A Cock Horse is a user-friendly 100-foot trad climb featuring an engaging chimney start and a technical top out. It offers climbers a practical way to sharpen their gear placements amid peaceful surroundings just outside Welsford."

Ride A Cock Horse: A Friendly Trad Climb at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Ride A Cock Horse offers a straightforward but engaging introduction to traditional climbing on the striking rock faces of Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick. This single-pitch, 100-foot route begins with an accessible chimney section where the rock folds invitingly around you, providing both physical security and a tactile connection to the natural stone. As you work your way up, the chimney gently squeezes you into a decisive move where you transition onto the main face—here, the climb tests your ability to balance and manage gear placement carefully.

The final top out demands attention: a subtle but tricky bulge forces a careful mantle onto the ledge above. Whether you choose to clip the bolted anchor or secure your rope to a sturdy tree, your commitment here is rewarded with sweeping views of the rugged Welsford landscape. This climb’s moderate 5.4 rating makes it approachable for climbers stepping confidently beyond beginner routes but who want to practice fundamental trad techniques.

Approaching the cliff is a short hike over rocky ground, with visible trails guiding you to the base. The terrain shows a mix of pine forest scents blending with fresh, crisp air, and the cliff face catches afternoon light in a way that highlights the contrast between shadowed cracks and sun-warmed slabs. Recommended gear includes a standard trad rack to accommodate the chimney’s protection opportunities and the sharper edges along the face. The anchors are reliable, combining fixed bolts and natural tree stands, giving options that fit various rope setups.

The established route sees light use, making it ideal for those who want a quieter climbing experience with chances to refine placing gear and managing rope systems. Seasonally, late spring through early fall is prime; avoid wet conditions as the chimney and top-out become slippery, increasing risk. For descent, a straightforward rap from the bolted anchor or a downclimb back onto the access ledges allows a safe return, though care is recommended on the final downclimb as rock can be loose or crumbly.

In all, Ride A Cock Horse invites climbers to embrace classic trad moves with a confident but cautious approach. The setting is serene and clearly marked, an excellent training ground for trad fundamentals, and a gateway to discovering the wider climbing gems within the Cochrane Lane cliffs.

Climber Safety

The tricky top out mantle demands deliberate foot and hand placements; slabby rock can be loose in spots, so proceed with caution. Avoid climbing if the rock is damp, as moisture significantly increases slip risk, especially on the chimney’s narrower sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid late-day shadows that can chill the chimney section.

Double-check anchor placements above the top out before committing to the final move.

Pack plenty of water and sunscreen; the approach trail is partially exposed.

Avoid climbing after rain to prevent slippery holds, especially on the chimney and top out.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4
Quality
Consensus:The 5.4 grade reflects a mostly straightforward climb with a move or two that require careful technique and steady balance. The chimney provides protection opportunities that feel secure to intermediate climbers, while the top out introduces a small crux that slightly elevates the challenge without overstating it. Compared to other New Brunswick climbs, the grade aligns well with easy to moderate routes that focus on skill development.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack to navigate the chimney and face placements comfortably, and be prepared to clip into either the bolted anchor or a solid tree at the top. Sturdy footwear with grip will be essential for the tricky mantle finish.

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Tags

chimney start
bolted anchor
tree anchor
beginner trad
single pitch
tricky mantle