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Rick's Route: A Run-Out Trad Challenge in Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara, California United States
small cams
run-out
technical traverse
southern exposure
oak anchor
single pitch
Central Coast
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Rick's Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rick's Route offers a bold single pitch trad climb near Santa Barbara, known for its run-out sections and technical traverse moves beneath a sharp overhang. This 80-foot line rewards seasoned climbers with a steady mix of slab and crack climbing, set against a striking Central Coast backdrop."

Rick's Route: A Run-Out Trad Challenge in Santa Barbara

Rick's Route carves a distinct path on the towering cliffs of San Ysidro, just uphill and right from the well-known Orangahang climb. This 80-foot single-pitch trad route is a true test of commitment, threading a shallow corner before transitioning into a technical left traverse beneath a compact overhang. The rock dares you to trust your footwork and balance as you negotiate the crux—a move that demands precision and nerve—before reaching a reassuring hold that helps you punch through the roof. From there, the line continues right then left into a broad crack that requires steady hands and confident placements.

Protection is sparse. Two bolts bookend the route, but much of the climb, especially the upper crack section, demands careful gear placements with small cams and nuts, or bold smearing across unprotected sequences. Falls carry consequences, especially below the first bolt where a slip could lead to a harsh landing. This makes Rick's Route a climb better suited for those comfortable with run-out trad climbs seeking an adrenaline spike in striking coastal terrain.

As you make your way up, feel the texture of the limestone beneath your fingertips and the warmth of the sun on your face. The climb’s position toward the southern exposure means mornings bring shadow to the wall, offering cooler conditions and a chance to pick off the crux moves before the day heats up. Vegetation clusters around ledges, with a large oak crowning the finish, offering a natural anchor and a moment to pause and survey the rugged Central Coast landscape.

Approach follows a well-used path through mixed chaparral, moderate in steepness and taking roughly 15 minutes from the nearest parking area near San Ysidro. Carry shoes that grip well on slab sections and bring double rack gear focused on small to medium cams complemented by slings for icicle-type placements. Hydration and sun protection are essential, particularly in summer months where the direct sun can intensify exposure.

Rick's Route is a technical puzzle with an adventurous spirit—part exploration, part calculated risk. The original finish veered uphill right onto the tougher Fine Line, rated around 5.9, but the standard variation leftwards offers a slightly softer exit while maintaining a run-out character. This is not a climb to rush. Taking time with each move and respecting the protection challenges transforms the experience from mere ascent to an encounter with the rock’s raw honesty.

With few votes online but a solid reputation among Santa Barbara locals, this route embodies the ruggedness of California's Central Coast climbing. Less frequented than its neighbors, it offers solitude and a chance to test skills on a demanding line that rewards focus, patience, and adventurous resolve. For climbers seeking to sharpen their trad instincts in a coastal setting rich in texture and challenge, Rick's Route is a compelling, no-frills classic.

Climber Safety

This route is extremely run-out with a potential fall below the first bolt that can cause serious injury. Careful route reading and controlled climbing are essential to mitigate risk. The rock is generally solid, but the sparse protection means a fall can have significant consequences.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach takes about 15 minutes on a moderate trail—wear sturdy shoes with strong grip.

Morning climbs offer cooler wall temperatures and shaded crux moves.

Double rack with small to medium cams and slings for optimal protection.

Hydrate well and bring sun protection; the southern exposure intensifies afternoon heat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 with an R designation, this climb leans into run-out territory, demanding commitment from the moment you leave the first bolt. The crux move beneath the overhang is protected but minimal, and the upper crack section notably lacks fixed gear, requiring precise protection placements. The grade plays slightly stiff due to the exposure and gear limitations, making it feel more challenging than typical 5.8 climbs in the area.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by only two bolts, with the section between them potentially taking small gear placements. The climb’s upper half lacks fixed protection, requiring solid trad rack skills and a selection of small cams and nuts. Due to extensive run-outs, be prepared for long falls and prioritize cautious, confident movement.

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Tags

small cams
run-out
technical traverse
southern exposure
oak anchor
single pitch
Central Coast