"Retro BJ is a spirited 60-foot sport climb at Hassler Crag, starting with a challenging undercling before opening into beautiful cracks all the way to the top. Perfect for climbers eager to push their 5.10c skills on northern British Columbia limestone."
Retro BJ offers a compelling challenge for climbers craving a sharp, focused session on Northern BC’s rugged stone. Bolted by Andrew Neis in the spring of 2018, this 60-foot single pitch slices through the crag with directness and flair. From the outset, the rock dares you with a committed undercling that demands precision and power before easing into an inviting sequence of clean, crack features leading skyward. The climb strikes a rewarding balance between punchy moves and technical finesse, making it a perfect test-piece for those comfortable on sustained 5.10 terrain.
Located at Hassler Crag, the route enjoys a broad exposure to the western sky, allowing sunlight to warm the rock for morning ascents while casting protective shade in the afternoon. The quality limestone offers secure handholds and solid footholds, with bolts spaced thoughtfully to maintain the flow while ensuring confidence in protection. Five mid-route bolts lead to a pair of top anchors fixed for both sport climbing and top-rope setups.
Getting to Retro BJ involves a straightforward approach along well-defined trails that thread through open forest and rocky outcrops. The moderate altitude and crisp northern air make early spring through late fall the ideal window for climbing here. Staying hydrated and wearing shoes with a snug fit will pay dividends, considering the sustained technical moves and slick undercling start.
For climbers visiting northern British Columbia seeking a climb that blends commitment with enjoyable crack climbing, Retro BJ defines the experience. It invites you to engage both body and mind, rewarding focus and precise footwork amid a setting that feels at once remote and accessible in equal measure.
Although the protection is well-placed, the undercling section requires confident clipping and body positioning; a misstep here can lead to a swing. Check anchor integrity before trusting the top bolts and remain aware of loose rock around the approach trail during wet seasons.
Begin early in the day to capitalize on the morning sun warming the rock.
Use climbing shoes with a precise fit to handle technical undercling moves.
Top-rope setups are straightforward with the two-bolt top anchors.
Watch for seasonal moss near the approach; footwear with good traction helps.
Two top anchor bolts secure the descent, with five mid-route bolts providing solid protection along the way. The protection spacing encourages efficient clipping, and the consistent bolt line suits climbers familiar with sport standards.
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