"Repeat When Necessary is a concise 35-foot trad climb in Squamish's Smoke Bluffs, perfect for those looking to sharpen crack skills on solid granite with trusted protection. This accessible route offers a clear line and steady challenge that blends technique with approachability."
At the heart of Squamish's legendary Smoke Bluffs lies Repeat When Necessary, a straightforward yet satisfying 35-foot trad climb that beckons climbers eager to refine their crack skills with reliable protection and clear movement. Positioned just above the fixed approach rope, the route reveals a small, sunlit face sporting three distinct cracks. The climb begins beneath the rightmost fissure—an inviting line that guides you upward with steady hand jams and thoughtful foot placements. Unlike its neighboring route Chalk Up Another One, this variation takes the rightmost crack, offering a compact but rewarding challenge.
The approach to Repeat When Necessary is direct and accessible, making it an ideal target for both newcomers looking to build confidence on moderate traditional routes and seasoned climbers seeking a no-frills warm-up. The rock itself is solid granite, textured enough to find purchase while demanding attention to technique rather than brute strength. Protection is comfortably placed with nuts and cams ranging from .6 to 2 inches, allowing climbers to trust their placements as they ascend. The single pitch is well-proportioned for a quick outing, enabling multiple laps or a deliberate focus on quality movement.
Surrounding the climb, the Smoke Bluffs area offers a quiet contrast to the busier parts of Squamish, with gentle breezes threading through coastal pines and the distant hum of the greater valley. As you climb, the granite face responds beneath your fingers, cool and unyielding but receptive to precise jams. The route’s 5.9 rating holds firm without being exaggerated—there’s a definite crux near the midway point where footwork and hand positioning combine to push your limits without leaving you stranded.
When planning your ascent, consider wearing sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging capabilities, as some foot placements demand attention to detail. Hydration is essential, especially in warmer months when the sun lingers on the exposed face. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are advisable to avoid direct midday heat. The route’s location within The Smoke Bluffs means parking and approach trails are well-maintained, reducing time between gear up and clip in.
Repeat When Necessary stands as a practical venture into trad climbing’s fundamental pleasures—short, protective, and approachable. Its modest length invites repeated attempts to polish technique, while the surrounding wilderness reminds you that every pitch is a personal encounter with the rock and elements. Whether you’re ticking off Squamish classics or simply enjoying a day outdoors, this route offers a compact package of challenge and accessibility.
Watch your gear placements carefully; while protection is straightforward, improperly placed cams can shift. The short approach above the fixed rope can be slippery when wet, so plan accordingly.
Start under the rightmost crack as for Chalk Up Another One but continue following the rightmost crack upward.
Opt for climbing shoes with firm edging for precise foot placement on quartz-granite textures.
Aim for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the strongest sun on this exposed face.
Pack ample water; the approach and climb can heat up quickly on warm days.
A versatile rack including nuts and cams from .6 to 2 inches covers needed protection. The cracks allow for solid gear placements, providing confidence without forcing awkward shots.
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