"Redcoats Resurrection is a solitary alpine trad climb rising 1500 feet on the edge of Mont de l'Equerre. It demands careful footwork to navigate loose rock early but rewards with exposed ridge climbing and a dramatic riverside setting."
Redcoats Resurrection cuts a striking silhouette against the rugged backdrop of Mont de l'Equerre, a demanding climb perched within the Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie region. This route is an unyielding blend of trad and alpine climbing, inviting adventurers to tackle its raw, exposed lines that rise some 1500 feet from the rocky base. The journey begins at the toe of a buttress where loose rock tests your steadiness—an early reminder that patience and precision will be your best allies. Once past this unstable stretch, the stone firms into better quality holds, rewarding your persistence with steadier climbing.
Following the easiest line weaving over and around monumental steps, climbers find themselves drawn toward a knife-edge ridge that defines the final pitch—thin and exposed, it demands focus at every move. The ridge pries open vast views framed by the stark wilderness below, where a giant waterfall cascades. This waterfall doesn’t just voice its presence; it commands it. It serves as a breathtaking landmark, famously transforming during winter into the immense ice climb, The Pomme d’Or, a beacon for ice climbers looking for one of Eastern North America’s premier chills.
Getting here requires commitment beyond the climb itself: the approach kicks off from a dam to the south of the river, tracing a rough path peppered with fallen logs and uneven ground that slow your rhythm. This uneven terrain is physically demanding and mentally sharpening—each step navigating natural debris prepares you for the challenges overhead. The first ascent team spent a cold night bivying at the summit after climbing into darkness, followed by a tough bushwhack along the crag’s left flank back to the river, underscoring the remote, wild nature of this destination.
Protection on Redcoats Resurrection calls for a standard trad rack—nothing out of the ordinary, but precision placements are necessary, especially through sections where rock quality varies markedly. The rock here may shift underfoot early on, so deliberate gear choices combined with thorough route knowledge ensure safety. This route suits climbers ready to face a straightforward but serious alpine trad rite of passage, where exposure and length combine to craft an unforgettable adventure.
Climbers aiming for Redcoats Resurrection should prepare for a long day and variable conditions. Weather plays a big role here: dry rock and clear skies improve friction and visibility, while any damp or cold snap can increase difficulty dramatically, especially near that exposed ridge. Early starts help beat afternoon wind and allow ample time for a safe retreat.
In essence, Redcoats Resurrection offers a genuine taste of Quebec’s high alpine character. It rewards resilience with thrilling climbing and substantial exposure, set within a landscape rich with natural drama. Whether you’re seeking a challenging single-pitch alpine climb or eyeing the allure of the adjacent waterfall’s winter transformation, this route stands as a quiet testament to the region’s climbing heritage and raw beauty.
Loose rock at the route’s beginning requires deliberate, slow climbing to prevent dislodging debris. The descent involves a tricky bushwhack along steep slopes; clear route knowledge and caution are essential to avoid getting off route or slipping on unstable terrain.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds on the exposed ridge.
Wear sturdy boots for the log-strewn, uneven approach trail.
Pack warm layers for the summit bivy possibility and sudden weather changes.
Familiarize yourself with bushwhack directions for a safe descent along the crag’s left side.
Bring a normal trad rack capable of solid placements on variable rock quality, including small to medium cams and nuts. Expect to place gear frequently through transitioning terrain.
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