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Redcoats Resurrection: A Bold Trad and Alpine Challenge in Quebec’s Hautes-Gorges

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
trad rack
alpine ridge
exposed climbing
single pitch
long route
Quebec
knife edge ridge
waterfall view
Length: 1500 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Redcoats Resurrection
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Redcoats Resurrection is a solitary alpine trad climb rising 1500 feet on the edge of Mont de l'Equerre. It demands careful footwork to navigate loose rock early but rewards with exposed ridge climbing and a dramatic riverside setting."

Redcoats Resurrection: A Bold Trad and Alpine Challenge in Quebec’s Hautes-Gorges

Redcoats Resurrection cuts a striking silhouette against the rugged backdrop of Mont de l'Equerre, a demanding climb perched within the Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie region. This route is an unyielding blend of trad and alpine climbing, inviting adventurers to tackle its raw, exposed lines that rise some 1500 feet from the rocky base. The journey begins at the toe of a buttress where loose rock tests your steadiness—an early reminder that patience and precision will be your best allies. Once past this unstable stretch, the stone firms into better quality holds, rewarding your persistence with steadier climbing.

Following the easiest line weaving over and around monumental steps, climbers find themselves drawn toward a knife-edge ridge that defines the final pitch—thin and exposed, it demands focus at every move. The ridge pries open vast views framed by the stark wilderness below, where a giant waterfall cascades. This waterfall doesn’t just voice its presence; it commands it. It serves as a breathtaking landmark, famously transforming during winter into the immense ice climb, The Pomme d’Or, a beacon for ice climbers looking for one of Eastern North America’s premier chills.

Getting here requires commitment beyond the climb itself: the approach kicks off from a dam to the south of the river, tracing a rough path peppered with fallen logs and uneven ground that slow your rhythm. This uneven terrain is physically demanding and mentally sharpening—each step navigating natural debris prepares you for the challenges overhead. The first ascent team spent a cold night bivying at the summit after climbing into darkness, followed by a tough bushwhack along the crag’s left flank back to the river, underscoring the remote, wild nature of this destination.

Protection on Redcoats Resurrection calls for a standard trad rack—nothing out of the ordinary, but precision placements are necessary, especially through sections where rock quality varies markedly. The rock here may shift underfoot early on, so deliberate gear choices combined with thorough route knowledge ensure safety. This route suits climbers ready to face a straightforward but serious alpine trad rite of passage, where exposure and length combine to craft an unforgettable adventure.

Climbers aiming for Redcoats Resurrection should prepare for a long day and variable conditions. Weather plays a big role here: dry rock and clear skies improve friction and visibility, while any damp or cold snap can increase difficulty dramatically, especially near that exposed ridge. Early starts help beat afternoon wind and allow ample time for a safe retreat.

In essence, Redcoats Resurrection offers a genuine taste of Quebec’s high alpine character. It rewards resilience with thrilling climbing and substantial exposure, set within a landscape rich with natural drama. Whether you’re seeking a challenging single-pitch alpine climb or eyeing the allure of the adjacent waterfall’s winter transformation, this route stands as a quiet testament to the region’s climbing heritage and raw beauty.

Climber Safety

Loose rock at the route’s beginning requires deliberate, slow climbing to prevent dislodging debris. The descent involves a tricky bushwhack along steep slopes; clear route knowledge and caution are essential to avoid getting off route or slipping on unstable terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length1500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon winds on the exposed ridge.

Wear sturdy boots for the log-strewn, uneven approach trail.

Pack warm layers for the summit bivy possibility and sudden weather changes.

Familiarize yourself with bushwhack directions for a safe descent along the crag’s left side.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this climb sits comfortably in classic trad territory but carries extra weight due to loose rock at the start and sustained exposure on the final ridge. The grade feels fair overall but requires focus and cautious foot placement in early sections. Climbers experienced with moderate alpine routes in the region will find it a solid challenge yet approachable in terms of technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a normal trad rack capable of solid placements on variable rock quality, including small to medium cams and nuts. Expect to place gear frequently through transitioning terrain.

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Tags

trad rack
alpine ridge
exposed climbing
single pitch
long route
Quebec
knife edge ridge
waterfall view